Author name: ut-admin

The last time you wore a suit, would be for a job interview or perhaps a wedding party or a funeral. Over the years, it seems suits have decline in fashion. But the run-away models in 2019 Spring/Summer collection suggests otherwise. There is a lot of suit tailoring with a modern twist. Performance fabrics, vibrant colors, unique detailing, looser cut etc. Oversize Suit  In the ’80s and ’90s, offices got more casual, and as a result, suits got way too big. Then, in the early-to-mid ’00s, designers showed us the wonders of a slim suit.  In 2017 and 2018, it finally seems like the industry at all price points has embraced a less-boxy, better-fitting suiting aesthetic. But in fashion no trend is too big to fail. Over the past few seasons, something strange has been happening on runways: Suits are getting bigger. Do go throw your slim suit away right yet. Oversize suits are in but it may not be mass produce or widely accepted or worn by everyone. Whats important is these oversize suits are cut and style in a very unique way. The fabrics used for these new suits seem specially tailored to meet the inherent flowiness of bigger proportions. The pants are just cut wide, but has the grace, the fall and the drape to it rather than just sticking to the thigh. Sure, there’s something to be said for the idea that a bigger suit can only look good on a tall, skinny model. That’s definitely possible, but this trend is also very new. Ultimately, all we’re saying is that the big suit trend only seems to be getting bigger, and if you can pull it off, it’s one of the coolest ways to stand out right now. In other words, proceed with caution and be aware that a well-tailored suit will look better on almost every guy. Street wear suit influence Its time the suit and tie had a millennial makeover. And that is the influence of streetwear into the suits. This new type of suit is a little slouchy, with a strong streetwear influence by best pairing them with sneakers rather than dress shoes. Streetwear has been influencing the mainstream fashion and luxury markets for few years now. The agenda for streetwear is simply – classic suits is too stuffy and uptight. And it wouldn’t harm skipping the shirt inside just like how its shown in Dior’s SS19 show. Streetwear began as a ground up movement, clothes for surfers and skaters and punk teens. Its a movement against the boring professionalism and exclusivity and expense of luxury fashion. It instead favoured rawness, attitude, creativity, community. It was for us, by us. But now, subsumed by the larger fashion industry it too became boring, professional, “high quality”. A look rather than an attitude or an ideology. A £1000 cotton hoody; no creativity, no community. Streetwear became a victim of its own success, its own dominance. It was once a reaction against an establishment, and then it became the establishment. And now, all of sudden, the suit — that oldest, most boring staple — feels revolutionary again.

Windowpane pattern are thin/slim lines that cross like squares/rectangle on fabrics. It is an ongoing trend and have been making their way into suits at Italian labels and at bespoke tailors too. Windowpane can be the contender for the most perfect suit patterns. Windowpane pattern beefs up the slim guy, makes the thin guys look bulkier. On the contrary, it has a slimming visual impact for larger men. It also facilitates an easier way for men who can’t mix and match their suit with shirt and tie. We have the suits with herringbones, houndstooths, pinstripe, twills but windowpane has some unique character to it. It adds an extra elegance to the overall suit. In a world where just the word pattern strikes fear into the hearts of many men, we present our windowpane suit guide as the antidote to pattern panic. Will I look good in Windowpane suit? Everyone looks great in windowpane suit. It has a a certain elegance or flattering essence that makes it one of the most desired suit pattern. Windowpane is actually not a squared line but it is actually a elongated rectangles. This has the effect of slightly elongating the wearer and that’s one reason you see bigger guys wear this pattern. Still, the pattern does include horizontal lines that can serve to bulk up the skinny guy’s presence. This makes windowpane suits a great alternative to pinstripes for the slimmer gent. This slick little visual trick is what makes the windowpane suit one of the most versatile suits a man can own. Do wear: For work and weddings. It makes the perfect blazer too not suit alone. Don’t wear: For job interview or funeral.

There’s a big event coming up and you want to be looking at your very best. Or maybe you have an upcoming interview and you want to impress. There’re countless reasons why you might want to dress to impress and this will often involve wearing a suit. The good news is that there’s plenty to choose from. Just a brief walk down the high street and you will find plenty of fashion retailers selling suits of all styles off the shelf, but is this really what you want? You should have little difficulty finding an off the shelf suit in your size, but it is rare that they will fit as well as a suit really can fit. We all come in different shapes and sizes and off the shelf suits are made to general specifications. For the best suits of all, you need something that has been made just for you. A Perfect Fit Tailor made suits are just that… tailor-made, and they are tailor-made just for you. You will be asked to go in person to see the tailor so that they can take your measurements. You will also likely to be asked to make further appointments with the tailor as the creation of the suit progresses. This helps the tailor to make any necessary adjustments as they go along to make sure the suit is just right for you. With a skilled tailor doing the work, the result is a suit that fits you perfectly. Not only does it look good, but it also feels good. The difference between an off the shelf suit and a tailor-made suit is very noticeable. You will not want to go back to an of the shelf suit again if you can avoid it. You will also often find that you can get shirts and other items as part of the deal. Again, these will be tailor-made to your specific measurements and will fit you perfectly. Future Adjustments Few of us will go through life without our body shape changing, especially around the waist area. Whether you lose weight or, more likely, gain weight, your suit will no longer fit as well as it used to. This might mean that your old suit needs to be put away where it may never be worn again. If you have purchased a tailor-made suit from a good quality tailor, though, then this should not be a problem for you. They will likely be happy to adjust your suit for you so that it continues to fit regardless of how your body might change. It also helps to be able to take it back to the same tailor because they will be adjusting their own work. A Worthy Investment It’s true that a good quality tailor-made suit will probably cost you more than an off the shelf suit. A tailor-made suit will give you more longevity, though, making it a more cost-effective investment in the long term. There’s also the matter of looking better and feeling better, which is worth the extra money in itself.

In a City Full of Tailors, Don’t Compromise and Pick the Best Tailor in Bangkok One thing that many visitors to Bangkok notice is the sheer number of tailors that are available. You will often find that there are several right next door to each other, all trying to convince you that you should use their shop over the others. It can be difficult to choose one over the other, though, after all they are all selling more or less the same thing. You might also feel as though you are being hurried into a decision, but you should take your time and decide in your own time. Hold Out for Quality When you are looking for a tailor in Bangkok, you will find that all of the shops will tell you that they offer the finest quality suits around. The reality can be somewhat different, though. The quality of the materials is not always up to the best standards, while the workmanship can also be much better at times. Even if a suit does look good and feel good when it is first ready, that doesn’t mean it will stay that way for long. A suit made from poor quality materials and workmanship might soon begin to lose its shape. A good quality suit, though, will be with you for many years to come. Where to Shop? Not many of us are tailoring experts. We tend not to know what to look for when shopping for suits, but there are some tips that can help you get a suit that is genuinely of high quality. · Get Referrals Avoid taking the word of people that work in the shop. Of course, they are going to tell you that their suits are the best. Instead, look for 3rd party advice from people that have no reason to be anything but honest. Have a look online to see what advice you can get and you should get plenty of recommendations. You could also try having a look in fashion magazines that will feature some of the best tailors around. · Hand Stitched For real genuine quality, it is best to look for something that has been hand stitched as much as possible. This helps to ensure fine workmanship that you can count on for many years to come. · Check Materials It is essential that a suit is made from excellent quality materials. Thoroughly inspect the materials on offer and compare them with others where possible. A good quality tailor should have no problem allowing you to take a small sample, allowing you to be sure of their quality. · Time A good quality suit takes time to make. It can also take several fittings to get it just right. If you do visit a tailor that offers a quick turnaround with just one fitting, then you might want to consider moving on elsewhere. If you are on holiday then your time is obviously limited. With that in mind, make visiting a tailor one of the first things you to give them time to do what they need to do. Overall, spending what you can on a suit will help ensure that you have something that helps you look good for years. When in a city like Bangkok, there is no need to compromise on quality when it comes to suits.

Good tailors who is an expert in its craft is becoming rare. That means there are more average or bad tailors in the industry. For men, dressing well is a skilled that comes with one own’s experiences and inspiration from others.  Inspiration can come from red carpet celebrities, sports person wearing the expensive Italian label suits. Or inspiration can come from someone in the family that you look up to like your father. It takes years to discover the style that works best on you and one learns from their own mistakes. As tailors are really hard to find as of late (at least good ones), we wanted to outline few traits to look for when searching for one. Traits that an excellent tailor should have? The tailor should have answers to your question The tailor should dig deep and explain you on every possible doubts you have. They should take time in explaining you the style that is in trend and what has gone out of fashion. They should not be reluctant to tell the client if they are wrong in their selection or the client is being outrageous or over ambitious. Custom tailoring can be pricey, both in the cost of service and the fact the end result can be ruined clothing. The potential of high costs makes it a good idea to ask questions and avoid any unnecessary headaches in the future. Patience is key here. The tailor should guide and ask questions during the fitting stages (the most important stage). Relationship with the tailor The journey in finding your own unique personal style, relationship with people and craftsman is important. They help and aid you in becoming a sartorial gentleman. Like the old saying goes “you don’t change your barber easily, nor you change your tailor easily”. Bespoke tailoring takes time and its a joint effort between the tailor and the client. Firstly, there has to be absolute clarity on the fabric quality, weight and seasonality that is most suitable for the fabric. During the fitting stage, there has to be strong communication regarding the fit to make sure the tailor and the client are on the same understanding. Detail oriented Making sure that the sleeves fit your arms properly and all other measurements are to exact specifications are signs of a good tailor. But a great tailor goes even further then that. Do you prefer to wear your smartphone in your jacket pocket? Is one part of your body out of sequence with another? Your tailor’s attention to detail needs to go beyond accurate measurements. He should be able to assess both your proportions and your habits to ensure that your suit fits your daily needs. He should showcases you in your best light. They should leave no stone unturned and should think of every minute aspect before you do. Have ample experience (and great reviews) If you’re looking to get a good tailored suit, start with someone who’s been in the business for years. Many tailors learn the trade from generations who came before. That means that family businesses are also a great starting point. A tailor who learned from a tailor is a great indicator that he is passionate in his craft and has learned from various generations. There is something special when knowledge is passed down through the generations and this holds especially true with tailors. If your tailor has been around for a number of years, you would have heard about them from your friends or families. References can be a great way to find a reputable tailor or receive confirmation you’ve chosen wisely.

What are surgeon cuffs on a men’s suit? You must have heard about them during a conversation with a tailor or someone who’s a suit-enthusiast. One line answer would be: they are functional button on suit jacket sleeves. They also called working button holes. Lets look back. In the early 19th century, military doctors or surgeons were asked to wear suit jackets. And in the middle of the battle while treating wounded soldiers, more often or not doctors would stain their jackets. The ever practical tailors on Savile Row in London introduced functional buttons on the cuffs of a jacket’s sleeve, so that the doctors could roll their sleeves up when needed. Since then, surgeon cuffs have been synonymous with carefully crafted and high-end men’s suits. Lets dig deeper. Historically, Savile Row neighborhood of London is associated largely by doctors. After few decades, the neighborhood changed and tailors began to set up shops in the area. During the transition period, the tailors started making suits for doctors with functional buttons, thus the name of surgeon cuff  was born. How to use them? Move forward to this day and age, surgeon cuffs are considered one of the prominent feature of a quality handmade suit. You don’t find them in off the rack or MTM suits. They are a true hallmark of custom made suits. It looks elegant when you notice the last button of the suit cuff unbuttoned.  Its a sartorial heritage to men’s fashion. You could also opt to use a contrasting buttonhole on the last button of your suit. Its a subtle bespoke details on the cuff that differentiate your suit from peers and reflects your personality. Its important to know that once the cuff on your suit jacket are made working, the sleeve length can not be modified. You have to be sure of the sleeve length on your suit jacket. Use a quality tailor and you will be in good hands.

Should you opt for belt in your suit trousers or no? There are different school of thoughts in this topic. A traditionalist would strongly say with full confidence “YES” while a fresh new graduate would consider belt to be optional. There isn’t a right or wrong answer to this question. There is some guidelines and occasion to when to wear a belt and when to skip it. We will make your life easier below:  Belts are common men’s accessory when dressing up in a suit nowadays. But it wasn’t back in early 20th century. Back then suits didn’t have belts but rather had pull-tabs or side adjusters on the waistband to accommodate any minor fluctuation in weight.  Suspenders were used when a little extra lift was needed. It wasn’t until suits went into mass production with standardized sizing and off-the-rack shopping that belt loops were introduced. Over time, the belt had become an acceptable office standard. Rules dictated that the belt should match or complement the shoes and be streamlined in design. So you wear your suit with a belt, and that’s totally fine if it’s used as an accessory to complete your look. But when you have a perfectly tailored bespoke suit, the belt should not act as a item to keep your pants sliding off. Rather it should be an accessory that enhance the look. A rule of thumb is the more formal the occasion is, the less likely the belt is needed. That’s is why you never see a belt in tuxedos or black tie suit. So if there is no belt, opt for button side tabs or metal side adjuster like below. Final Verdict At the end of the day, it comes down to the belt loops. If you’ve got them, you should use them. If no loops are present, mystery solved. Keep in mind that regardless of belt choice, your pants should be tailored to fit your body. A belt holding up too-big balloon trousers looks sloppy. If you’re opting for a belt even occasionally, remember that it’s an accessory, not a necessity. And if it’s an option in your wardrobe, going beltless ensures a cleaner, leaner, more streamlined silhouette that will set you apart in the best way. And without belt, you need not worry about matching your shoes color and design with your belt.

Dress shirt collars comes in various shapes, sizes and style. Understanding and utilizing the collar is an important lesson in men’s fashion. The choices are limited if you buy MTM shirt or off the rack shirt; that’s the beauty of getting a hand made custom shirt. Men usually stick to a few collar shapes; but becoming confident with all the small details of a collar broaden your fashion sense and enable a man to add his personal style to the dress shirt.  The right collar can change the tone of an outfit from average to amazing. We believe in having a mix of collar styles in your wardrobe; don’t stick to one. To suit every occasion possible, play around with every collar; right from wide cutaways to button downs; etc. Most bloggers or brands would suggest you to get a collar that correlate with your face – e.g. if you have a long face, you should be using spread collars or if you have a square face, you should avoid point collar. We think this is complete nonsense and complicate things. One can enjoy all sort of collars and adapt them to fit your personality and style. Avoid following someone else rules that is based on one’s self opinion. Bottom line is to a shirt that fits and collars that looks good and you are comfortable in. Add your personal style in the collar and experiment with them. Read below on our complete guide: Point collar Our most traditional collar, and often thought of as a more American collar. It has a narrower distance between the two collar points and, when buttoned, a smaller enclosure for a tie knot. An excellent choice and a classic look for the office.  There is less room between the collar leafs than in a spread collar, which means it’ll accommodate a slimmer tie knot rather than a larger one. You’re a no-nonsense traditionalist who appreciates the classics. A work-horse collar and recommend to wear with a tie. Semi-Spread collar   A very popular collar alternative to the point collar is semi-spread collar. It accommodates a larger and smaller tie with ease. The spread gives a classic look and timeless option. This collar style accommodates both small and large tie knots due to the space between the collar leafs. Semi-Spread collars are generally very versatile and can be worn easily with a jacket and tie or on their own. One of the most popular choice. But if you have awfully big neck, would suggest to go for spread collar. Spread Collar Called English spread collar, this collar has become more popular in recent years. It’s great to show off your tie knot. Looks confident and classy when worn with the collar button undone. The spread collar shirt is really your “no wrong answer” kind of shirt. It works in just about every situation imaginable, won’t get you in trouble for any kind of employer dress code/style violation and just looks damn good. Too easy.  Most versatile collar and suit everyone. Cutaway Collar A cutaway collar is a bold, modern and sartorially-advanced style choice. Following the rigid, longer and narrower collars of the 1920s, the cutaway collar dress shirt emerged in the 1930s. The cutaway collar is not for everyone. It is the most fashion forward collar. If you’re at all on the fence about it, go with a spread collar instead. But if it’s your thing, it can be easily become “your look” for just about every kind of occasion, ranging from office to date to wedding. Confidence to wear the collar is the key. Button-down Collar This collar fastens the collar points to the body of the shirt with buttons. It is gaining popularity more recently in business casual looks. The button down was originally invented for polo players to keep their collar points from moving during matches. It is best worn with collar button undone. Looks perfect with casual untucked shirt and also semi-formal shirt. Must not wear with a tie. Wing collar This is a collar band with small collar points turned down at the front neck. Used for formal gatherings with a tuxedo this collar is not part of an everyday wardrobe. The “wings” hold your bowtie in place. Modern men have moved to wearing their bowties with point and spread collars in finer fabrics.

Hopsack is basically the name of the weave, not a fabric name. Hopsack varies in terms of the weight, twist and how tightly or loosely the fabric is woven. It is basically a lightweight wool fabric and go-to fabrics in summers. It has a basket weave texture which gives a very different feel to tailored garment; which is a good thing as it adds some character to the garment. According to us, its better than plain weave as it separates from trousers and make it not look like a full suit. Modern hopsacks are soft, very breathable and crease resistant. This makes a perfect travel blazer as it beautifully creases out after folding them in your luggage. The rough texture of the fabric makes a obvious choice for blazer as it does incredibly well with denims and chinos. And also looks formal in two or three piece suit. On a whole, its a very versatile garment. PROS OF HOPSACK – Lightweight and breathable. Half lined jacket would be great for this fabric. – Natural wrinkle resistance due to woven texture. – Forgiving drape, easier to tailor. – The coarse texture creates a more casual, wearable garment. CONS OF HOPSACK Due to its open weave, this fabric is delicate and sensitive to rubbing – this is the reason why it is less used in elegant trousers tailoring. Hopsack trousers risk indeed damaging or snagging easily on the crotch. To conclude, the very loose and airy structure does make it breathable, but not heat/cold-proof. That’s why it is considered as a summer and spring fabric, less autumn and definitely not winter. We carry good selection of hopsack fabrics both in Asian all wool fabric and from renowned Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico. Check it out!

Suit fabrics can range from real cheap ones to exquisite ones. Deciding between fabrics can be a real struggles; but avoid polyester fabrics at all time. One of the key sartorial decision to be made while getting a suit tailored is seasonality. One should be able to navigate the changing weather through its suit fabrics. Summers are pleasant. Days are long, nights are short and warm.  Summers means you munch on good food and blasting your tummy. But as mother nature changes its pace, the humidity and stickiness fades. Soon, the air breathes good chills. Then it would be time to sidelined your summer linen and fresco suits. And it calls for a different wardrobe. Dressing for FALL is a challenge. The fabric and pattern makes a difference when the temperature drops. The best bet is warmer, darker and more textured fabric. Read below on our FALL suit guide: GUIDELINES:  Before we start on our guide, it’s important to understand that there are alternatives in terms of fabrics like silk, viscose etc, but the majority of fall suits are made from 100% wool or all wool. The fabrics we recommend below are all 100% wool fabrics milled and woven in different textures, weight etc. FLANNEL WOOL Most men will have never worn flannel fabric, let alone a flannel suit. Suits for them are worsted wool – wool that has been combed and pressed, made sleek and sharp. ‘Woollen flannel’, is without that treatment. Flannel– classically in grey but also in navy and other colors – are clearly smart. Yet their fuzzy (milled) texture separates them from normal suit. Wool flannel suits are perfect for fall, they are heavier which means they provide a better drape and better insulation as mentioned above. A gray flannel suit is the godfather of the genre, armed with the ability to mix-and-match with almost anything in your wardrobe, this suit is easy on the eyes, and even easier to wear. TWEED Suit Tweed is made from carded wool instead of combed wool. Carded wool, also known as woolens, is thicker and consists of uneven, uncombed yarns. This makes for a fabric that is more raised, flexible, and warmer, but not as smooth and fine to the touch as your worsted or wool flannel suit fabrics. Tweed is deeply rooted in the heritage of 1800’s England, Ireland, and Scotland, where gentlemen engaged in outdoorsy and athletic pursuits embraced it for its superb resistance to cold air, wind and water. In fact, it was considered a performance fabric in its heyday. Though it’s not as popular in modern times, mills like Harris Tweed has kept the tradition alive. More importantly, suits made from tweed will indeed keep you warm in cooler weather and carry with them a certain vintage sartorial charm. UT as one of the superior tailors in Bangkok, offer good selection of tweeds in store and bought online. Variety of Pattern Suit The plaid pattern (also known as tartan) is key to the fall season. Plaid is weave from multiple overlapping horizontal and vertical threats taken from a variety of colors. Because of the diverse range of available color combinations, including the use of monotone combinations, plaid can be perfect for both statement-makers and subtle guys alike. Plus, this enhanced versatility also means plaid suits can be mixed and matched for almost any dress code, and look as sharp in the office closing deals as they do while you’re listening to some live jazz and downing an old-fashioned. As a general plaid rule, bolder patterns with greater color contrast produce trendier looks while understated and more monochrome patterns give off a more classic, sophisticated aura. In modern times, the herringbone pattern is profound in all men’s fashion right from suits, sports coats to shirts. Its particularly loved for its subtlety. It looks plain from afar but up close its a pattern with sophistication. It has an inherent charm to it.

Business suit help you close business For business attire or business suits, the color is straight forward. The standard color for suits are navy or grey. The choice is limited but it STILL needs to be done right. There is no other color that looks smarter or flatter one’s skin better than these two colors. Black is too boring, brown isn’t for everyone and light tan or grey is on the casual side. The color needs to be dark for business and again not that dark that looks like almost black. Navy is the gold standard for business suit. Sometimes men end up buying too dark navy, that is midnight navy blue. Which looks close to black. Midnigh navy looks pale and pasty. On the other hand, mid blue have become very popular over the years, particularly at weddings. Mid blues would be too strong color for most offices. In general, the paler and brighter a colour the more casual it is, so if you want to wear a colour like this, have it in something more casual, like a linen jacket. Navy is serious, professional and yet interesting enough in terms of colour combinations. Midnight blue looks smart with a white shirt and black shoes, but that’s about it. Navy, on the other hand, also looks good with those accessories, but brings out chocolate-brown shoes as well. And a blue shirt under a navy suit provides a great background for experimentation with colour in the tie or handkerchief – strong colours against black just look cheap. Suitable color for business suit Most of this applies to greys as well. Sometimes men wear grey that is way too dark and looks almost like black and with little texture. Generally, there are really two good categories of grey that can be worn for business: charcoal and mid-grey. Charcoal is a sober and professional, and works particularly well in flannel, but (like navy) it cannot be mistaken for black. Mid-grey, however, is kindest of all the suit colours on skin tones – it compliments a good tan, but it doesn’t wash out the pasty. It is for that reason that I would recommend creating a business wardrobe (or commissioning their your bespoke suits) in navy, charcoal and mid-grey. Mid-grey might feel a little adventurous. It is a touch lighter than the grey suit you would instinctively buy for business. Don’t be afraid – it will look perfectly serious with a blue shirt, dark tie and deep-brown Oxfords. But it will also work wonderfully in a casual summer setting, with a white shirt, mid-brown shoes and perhaps a white linen handkerchief. Should I pick a pattern? If you are getting your first bespoke suit, make it plain. There is enough aspect of the suit to be worried about like; fit, style, color, customization. When we say plain, it means twill weave. That is a very fine diagonal line running across the fabric. Worst wool (the material that most suits are made of) is rarely plain. There are twills, pinheads, pick on pick which come across as plain but its not. In general, minor patterns is a good thing. Its gives character to the suit. Unless the desired look is upmost formal, a little pattern or texture adds to the interest of the suit and contrast nicely with tie and shirt. So consider those little patterns to be nothing more than texture. Herringbone is often a good option for a second or third suit; essentially a broken twill, it adds a touch of interest without sacrificing seriousness.

The pocket square is a cultural relic. In ancient Egypt, nobles wore pocket squares made of Chinese silk. Later, Greeks carried perfumed cotton cloths to remove sweat, creating an ancient antiperspirant. In Medieval Europe, knights would carry handkerchiefs close to their chest as proof of a lady’s favor. Pocket squares have been integral to cultures across millennia. Although they trace back to ancient Egypt, the pocket square is a modern wardrobe staple. They’re tucked into the pockets of modern style icons, real and fictional. Every James Bond has worn one, and John F. Kennedy (perhaps the most stylish president) was rarely seen without one adorning his suit. Today’s pocket square is more about style than utility, but it makes a big difference in an outfit. Whether cotton, linen or silk, plain, patterned or printed, one of these square pieces of cloth has the potential to pull an average tailored look into the A-grade. Why Wear a Pocket Square? Pocket squares polish an outfit without making you look like you care a lot about your appearance. After all, you are the focus—not your clothes. It can also make a good suit look even better. A pocket square in a solid color tones down a patterned suit. Worn with a solid suit, a patterned pocket square (or a solid one in a contrasting color) makes the outfit more interesting. Pocket squares fit every man’s lifestyle. They’re formal enough for a black-tie event but casual enough for happy-hour drinks. It all depends on how you style it. When to wear a Pocket Square? Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later). However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket square rule. We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear a pocket square? The answer to that is not really. Once you become a regular square wearer you’ll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house without your shoes. It’s really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a very conservative look choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighter than your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little bit of contrast such as a navy square with polka dots. MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE One question we often get asked is around whether you should be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no in modern dress. Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. So although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top of your style game. Plain colour styles are an absolute must, their simplicity and lack of pattern making them easy to match with your ensemble. Especially worthwhile investing in when taking your first steps into pocket squares is a classic white version – now widely considered as much a wardrobe essential as the Oxford shirt or Derby shoe. Once you’ve got your plain color bases covered, it’s time to introduce pattern. Prioritise timeless motifs – think paisley, polka dots and checks – in rich jewel tones like burgundy, navy, and bottle green, as well as fail-safe neutrals like white, grey and black. POCKET SQUARE FOLDS While the color and pattern of your pocket square can say a lot about your fashion sense and color coordination skills you should also know how to fold or not fold your pocket square. The PUFF The puff ‘fold’ is the easiest and most casual way to wear a pocket square. All you have to do is lay the pocket square flat out on a table and pinch it up from the center. Once you have achieved this gently tuck the corners of the pocket square into your jacket breast pocket. This fold works best with silk pocket squares that are larger, so that they do not disappear in your pocket. Edged Puff The Edged Puff is a variation of the Pocket Square Puff Fold, where the edges that are tucked into the breast pocket are now fold back up so they are showing behind the ‘puff’.  The Edged Puff is one of our favorite ways of wearing a pocket square as it shows color and style with both the puff and the pocket square edges being displayed. Square Fold The Square Fold works well with linen or cotton pocket squares given that their fabric structure is slightly more rigid than silk, helping to keep the pocket square’s edges in place. Hence, a square fold is ideal for business / formal settings. One-Point Fold A super classic way to interpret pocket squares, the one-point fold displays a triangle shape peeking out through your pocket. This fold is more noticeable than the conservative square fold, and is recommended for most looks featuring pocket squares. A higher quality silk is recommended. Three-Point Fold One of the more complicated folds, this style should be approached when you feel more comfortable wearing pocket squares. Otherwise known as the Crown Fold, this style works well with simplistic silks as well as deeply coloured patterns, adding dimension to your formal looks. This is for when you are really going formal with your pocket square or if you want to really make a statement with it. This fold is also one of the toughest to get right. The Different Types of Materials Pocket squares are generally made from silk, cotton, and linen. Wool is sometimes thrown into a fabrication, and

Interestingly, most men think about cotton or linen fabrics first. Also, the lightness of the fabrics seems to be the number one criterium, but these are only two aspects of warm weather menswear. Therefore we created this guide where we explain what to look for in hot weather clothing. Although a summer suit needs more than just one characteristic in order to be  worn comfortably, the most important aspect is neither weight nor the choice of material – it is breathability. High Breathability Due to Loose Weave & Lack of Lining When it is hot, you definitely want to feel every breeze coming your way, and the best way to do so is with an open-weave fabric. Loosely woven fabric such as basketweave fabric, is usually popular in summer and achieves the desired cooling effect. When you hold a piece of this fabric against the light, you can see through the weave of the cloth, even it if is dark navy. If the fabric is a heavier weight, it will also keep you cooler than a featherweight cotton fabric that is tightly woven. The more open the weave, the more patterned your fabric should be to keep it from becoming see-through. However, bear in mind that lighter colors are better than darker ones since light-colored cloth reflects the sunlight whereas dark cloth absorbs it, making you feel warmer. Also, you want to make sure that you get at least a half-lined jacket because, again, the finer weave of the lining will decrease your garment’s ability to breathe. Half-lined denotes that the back does not have any lining except for the top, and fully unlined usually means that there is no lining except in the sleeves. Once you have settled on an open-weave, you can turn to choosing the weight of your suiting fabric. Fortunately, modern high-quality fabrics have a beautiful finish, and although the drape is not perfect, they are still the way to go.  7 ounces (210 grams) summer fabrics usually have very open weaves and you should seek out specific summer fabrics for summer suits, because even though some fabrics may be lightweight, the weave may be too dense for summer. A popular summer fabric choice is Tropical. Basically all big mills offer their take on it, and it is simply an open weave worsted wool fabric. It’s generally softer than fresco but also not as breathable. Overall, it is a good choice, but if you want increased air flow you have to go with something else. Linen for Summer? Linen is a classic summer fabric because of its light weight, open weave and casual fabric structure. It is usually a little coarser than fine merino wool or cotton fibers., and it wrinkles graciously. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will appear anything but dapper. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will look a bit wrinkled but in a sophisticated way. For the office, you need to be able to pull it off because many people will just think it is a wrinkled suit. Classic linen summer suit colors include tobacco brown, beige or khaki tones, but you can also go with blue. If you go with the latter, be sure to get a lighter shade of blue than you would for a wool business suit because it underlines the summer character. If you want to do something special, you can also opt for unusual colors such as sky blue linen suit. Summer Cotton For most men, cotton seems to be a default choice during the summer. Now, there is a lot of cotton on the world market, but there are huge differences in terms of fiber length and thickness. In regard to summer clothing, the weave is more important. For example, khaki colored twill trousers or fine “summer” corduroy are not desirable since they impede air circulation. Instead, try to look for open weave poplin fabric. If you cannot see through the fabric when holding it against the light, it is not well suited for warm summer weather.

Buying a bespoke suit is an investment, and as with any investment, your suits should be well cared for. This is important in order to preserve their appearance and maximise their life span. The first thing to understand is that when you first start to wear a new bespoke suit it will begin to settle in and you’ll get a much better feel for the fit. It’s worth remembering that bespoke clothing differs from ready to wear, in as much as the garment shape will develop as it’s broken in. Cleaning Our advice is to dry clean your suits as rarely as possible as the chemicals used during the dry cleaning process strip out the natural oils found in the wool. This damages the cloth and in turn shortens the life of the suit. Ideally, a suit should be dry cleaned no more than twice a year but if more cleaning is required then remember a good dry cleaner will also be able to ‘spot clean’ any dirty areas. Regular pressing of your suit is fine, helping to remove creases and bring shape back into the garment. When selecting a dry cleaner it is worth spending a little more and going to one accustomed to dealing with bespoke suits. Brushing A suit needs to be regularly brushed, much like human hair, to ensure it looks its best. As well as removing dust, dirt and food particles, brushing helps to redistribute the natural oils in the cloth fibres which will prolong the life of your suit. We recommend you brush your suit after every wear and use a high quality, pure bristle brush. Rotation Don’t wear the same suit everyday! Over use is a sure fire way to shorten the life of your suit, wearing it out too quickly. Give your suit a chance to rest and breath in-between wear, alternating it with other clothing will help to increase its life span.

For the uninitiated, the ticket pocket is the small flapped or jetted pocket (it can be straight, or slightly angled), placed just above the right main hip pocket on a men’s jacket. It is normally roughly half as wide as the hip pocket. The ticket pocket, also known as change pocket, has an old British history. At first it wasn’t even used to store a ticket, as the name indicates today. It became useful before the huge popularity of the railroad, as it was placed on the jackets of equestrians who needed quick access to coins at toll points. Allowing gentlemen to keep their jackets buttoned, this exterior pocket held cash in an extremely convenient way. Ticket pockets were a staple on men’s sturdy country suits before they adapted into the urban suits men wore to commute on a daily basis. During the Industrial Revolution train travel boomed with men making daily trips to the country or to the city for work. As men found it annoying to go through all their pockets in search of their precious train tickets, the ticket pocket became their natural solution. Tailors started to receive requests for a special pocket made exclusively for this purpose, which eased everyone’s lives (train staff included). A new and practical trend was born. Today the extra side pocket is not a necessity anymore. Its main function is as a fashion statement that shows high style IQ. It looks sharp and can be a good conversation starter, especially with neophytes who want to know more about it. Even if it’s a British detail, nowadays one can find it on Italian or American suits as well. Men with a penchant for style and sophistication will always like a jacket that offers a little visual variety and sets them apart from the usual two-pocket look. Many modern guys still love that British-dandy vibe they get from an impeccable suit and feel the need to spice up their sartorial excellence with such details. However, you will find that this pocket which, to be honest, does add an extra kick to any suit or sports jacket, also makes functional sense today. It’s the perfect place to stash a bunch of business cards – extremely efficient in business meetings, on planes (one never knows when opportunity arises, right?) or at VIP clubs. An alternative would be storing aspirins, a tea bag, change, a receipt and even a subway card. Let’s face it, a jacket will always look way better than a “functional” cargo vest. Since we are evaluating benefits, tall men will find the ticket pocket visually helpful since it fills up some of that negative space in their long torsos. Same goes for the skinny types. Feel free to experiment and show a little personality by playing around with the ticket pocket! Let it spring up nonchalantly on an overcoat or a suit jacket and act surprised by all those turning heads. You may thank British sartorial heritage once again.

Wool is the fiber that grows on the body of a certain animal – sheep, goat, camel, rabbit etc. It replenishes itself each time the animal is sheared and continues to grow throughout its lifetime. It is also the word we usually use when we talk about fabrics that are made out of fleece of these animals. Each type of fleece is different and therefore every wool fabric has its own properties. Types of wool (most popular) Sheep’s Wool. It is traditional wool that can be made from any sheep fleece. Merino Wool. Merino wool is taken from a Merino Sheep and has fine, soft appearance of the fabric. It is quite expensive. The distinction from other types of wool is its resistance to pilling. Mohair Wool. Mohair is taken from Angora goat. It is not very soft and many people find it a very itchy fabric to wear directly next to the skin. Angora Wool. Angora wool is made of an Angora rabbit hair. Its main quality is its fluffy surface texture and its soft touch. It is expensive, as it comes from a specific breed of rabbit. To improve fabric stability Angora is often blended with Nylon.  Cashmere Wool. Cashmere is soft and luxurious fabric. The fibers that are used to make cashmere come from specific areas of the fleece of a cashmere goat, and that is why it is so expensive. Alpaca Wool is made from the hair of Peruvian alpacas, but it also also can come from similar fibers of mohair, Icelandic sheep or even high-quality English wool. Alpaca fleece is a lustrous, silky, soft and therefore luxurious natural fiber. It is warmer than usual wool, not prickly, and bears no lanolin, and therefore – hypoallergenic.   The common benefits of wool fabrics are those – they are natural, warm, easy taken care of, and they breathe.   Wool qualities Wool fiber is resilient and elastic. It can be bent more than 20,000 times without danger of breaking or any damage. Because of a complex cellular structure it can absorb moisture vapor, but repel liquid. There is no synthetic fiber that could combine all of these characteristics. Wool absorbs dyes deeply and directly without any use of chemicals. Because of this, wool can be dyed in beautiful, rich colors. Wool is an absorbent fiber and therefore is comfortable to wear in both warm and cool climates. When the air is warm, wool takes up perspiration and keeps a layer of dry insulating air next to the skin. When the air is cold and damp, wool absorbs moisture and keeps a layer of dry insulating air next to the skin. This makes the body’s natural warming and cooling system work better. Wool products are a great investment. Since wool fibers resist piling, snagging, and breaking, wool items typically outlast synthetic ones. Unlike many artificial fibers wool naturally resists flaming. Wool does not melt and stick to the skin when on fire (like other fabrics) but usually smolders or chars instead of bursting into flame. Although intense fire would burn wool fabric, when the flame source is removed it normally self-extinguishes.   The bottom line is, wool is the ideal fabric for bespoke suits.  

A jacket is good for outdoor activities and very casual get-ups. Beyond that, though, you need a nicer overcoat for a wide variety of events: daily work at a professional job or the occasional job interview; going out to a bar, restaurant, or movie; coffee dates, theater dates, and every kind of date in between; winter weddings or funerals; Christmas mass and a New Year’s Eve gala. Not every kind of overcoat achieves the same all-around adaptability, however. Some are more casual and don’t work with formalwear as well, while some are so formal they’d look out of place over jeans. The key is to pick an overcoat with the fit, length, fabric, and style that give it a not-too-formal, not-too-casual look that will be appropriate for nearly every occasion. STYLE. The double-breasted overcoat goes in and out of style, and is a nice choice for wearing to a conservative workplace or more formal events. But a single-breasted coat is more classic and versatile, and pairs as well with a suit as a sweater and jeans. While a double-breasted overcoat should be worn buttoned and closed, a single-breasted can be worn open for a casual look. The single-breasted, as it involves less fabric around your midsection, is also more flattering and slimming. Single-breasted overcoats are especially recommended for short men; the double-breasted variety tends to swallow the petite man up. BUTTON. A 3-button overcoat is the most classic way to go. 4-button coats tend to be more formal. LAPELS. Notched lapels are typical of single-breasted overcoats and are more casual. Peak lapels are usually found on double-breasted coats and are more formal. Go with notched. COLOR.  Rather than black, navy blue is your best and most versatile color choice. It’s serious without being solemn, and looks equally good with both day and evening wear. Dark gray comes in as the second runner up in the color category. A camel-colored number is an attention-grabbing but viable option if you own multiple overcoats, but for our minimalistic purposes, navy or gray will be more versatile; you’re not going to pull a brown coat on over your formalwear. FABRIC. For weight and durability, 100% wool is the way to go; it’s warm and durable and will last forever. Cashmere coats have a nice, rich-looking finish, and are lighter, softer, and warmer. But cashmere comes with an enormous price tag, doesn’t hold up to the elements as well, and wears out and pills easier. And since this is outerwear we’re talking about, extra softness doesn’t matter much. Some coats add a layer of synthetic microfiber for extra warmth, which can be a good idea if you live in a particularly cold place, but 100% wool should do it for most. Look for a nice hefty fabric; a good overcoat should weigh around 4 pounds.