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Silk, linen, and cotton are the most popular materials for a plain white pocket square, each offering unique characteristics, primarily in terms of weight and texture. Silk, renowned for its luxurious feel, is also excellent for its quality. The soft edges of silk pocket squares make them perfect for relaxed, unstructured folds. Additionally, their lightweight nature ensures they won’t create bulk in your pocket. Plain white linen is another popular choice for a pocket square, particularly during the summer months. With firmer edges than silk, a white linen pocket square is better suited for more structured folds, while its center retains enough flexibility for looser, unstructured options. Linen’s unique texture also adds contrast when paired with complementary fabrics such as those found in suits, blazers, or jackets. A plain white cotton pocket square, though closer in feel to a handkerchief, should not be overlooked. Lightweight, versatile, and easy to maintain, cotton is also the most affordable option of the three. However, it lacks the distinctive properties of linen and silk, meaning it won’t hold a fold as well or add the same textural depth to an outfit. When it comes to a plain white pocket square, every detail matters, and hand-rolled edges are essentially most elegant – they represent the highest standard of pocket square finishing. Once you’ve selected the right white pocket square, the next step is choosing the perfect fold. There are numerous options, and the fold you choose can be guided by the occasion. The plain white pocket square is a classic – one cannot go wrong with this. While choosing the right fabric, finishing details, and fold does require careful consideration, and take a bit of more time to give it an importance. After all, it’s the little details that make all the difference.

Seersucker is a fabric steeped in rich mythology, with one of its most enduring stories being its etymology. The word “seersucker” comes from the Hindi words shîr (milk) and shakar (sugar), which refer to the fabric’s characteristic texture—smooth in some places and bumpy in others. Like many classic menswear fabrics, seersucker traces its origins to India, specifically during the British Raj, when it first attracted Western attention. After making its way to the United States, it became a favorite in the American South for its ability to keep the wearer cool in hot weather. Today, seersucker is offered in over 30 different patterns, ranging from the traditional blue-and-white stripes to bold windowpane designs and contemporary solids. Whatever form your seersucker takes, it’s important to remember that the fabric’s charm lies in its relaxed nature. Whether you’re dressing it up for a wedding or wearing it casually to a racetrack, seersucker is best enjoyed when you embrace its easygoing spirit. Come visit your favorite Bangkok Tailor to tailor your next Seersucker Suit on your next Bangkok or Thailand trip.

ร้านตัดชุดที่ดีที่สุด By Life sara มองหาชุดสูทผู้ชาย เท่ๆ อยู่? เรารวมร้านตัดสูทผู้ชายคุณภาพดีมาให้แล้ว จะเป็นเสื้อสูทผู้ชายแฟชั่น ชุดสูทผู้ชายเกาหลี สูทสีกรม จัมพ์สูท ใดๆ ก็มีครบ

How to Make Your Suit Last Longer You’ve finally invested in a quality suit, and you want to make sure it lasts as long as possible. Here are some tips. CLEANING Only clean your suit when it is physically dirty or stinky – meaning you’ve spilled something on it, or you sweat through it. Most suits are dry-clean-only, and you never want to over dry-clean a garment. Dry cleaning is a chemical wash that can wear down the fabric if you do it too often. Think of it like dipping the garment in a chemical that “scrapes away” the very surface layer of the fabric. Eventually the fibers begin to weaken. If your suit just needs a “refresher”, just have it professionally pressed. This is cheaper than dry-cleaning, and the heat and steam will kill most of the bacteria and clean it sufficiently in most cases. I have several suits that are a few years old that I have never dry cleaned. IRONING/STEAMING It’s a good idea to steam your suit before or after each wear. This brings it back to its natural state, and natural ‘hang”. This can be as simple as hanging it in the bathroom while you take a hot shower (pro tip). If you’re going to iron your suit yourself, make sure to use a pressing cloth (a piece of fabric, usually cotton, between the hot metal of the iron and the fabric of the suit). If you hit the fabric directly with an iron that is too hot, you risk “scorching” the fabric (making it shiny)…which is basically impossible to reverse. STORING After you take your suit off, always hang it up immediately. Don’t throw it in the hamper. Don’t toss it on the ground. Don’t throw it over a chair. Hang it on a proper hanger, with a pant bar and a full shoulder. This will allow it to return to its natural shape, dry out any moisture shape, and ultimately help it last longer. If you’re storing it long-term (ie. seasonally) keep it in a protective garment bag (or plastic cover) with a cedar hanger to keep the moths away. GIVE IT A BREAK Try not to wear a suit two days in a row. Like a pair of shoes, it’s a good idea to allow the garment to fully dry-out and catch its breath. Even a workhorse needs a break to perform its best. PACKING/TRAVELING Traveling? See our post on how to fold and pack a suit (and shirt) properly. Even better; get yourself a proper suit bag. ALTERING If you change weight/shape and the suit is not fitting as well as it could, consider getting it altered. A properly adjusted fit doesn’t just look and feel good, it also helps a garment last longer. An ill fitting garment can “pull” awkwardly on the fabric with movement, causing strain. Strain can lead to tears. FIXING TEARS If it rips on a seam, no problem, just have your local tailor/seamstress re-sew it together. It if rips off a seam, you might be in trouble. There are fabric “re-weavers” who can sometimes do miracles and are worth reaching out to, but best case scenario you will be left with a scar on the fabric wear the tear was.

To pleat or not to pleat, that is the question. The question on pleated vs flat front when choosing dress pants demands an answer. Learning the differences between the two common dress pant styles will give you a sartorial advantage against the uninitiated. Plus, it will prevent you from committing a style blunder in public. Let’s explore more. Dress Pants Style In the early 2000s’, loose was out and skinny was in. Slim silhouettes were the shape of choice, and with them came flat-front pants and slimmed down legs that lead into the modern ‘no break’ hem. The slim-fit flat-front camp or the loose-cut pleated camp? The truth is, the fashion experts would like to have it both ways and tell you to keep up with the times and buy what’s “on-trend”. What Is The Purpose Of Pleats? Aside from aesthetic differences, pleated dress pants possess some functional utility that sets them apart from flat front options. When you sit, your seat (also known as your ass) and thighs naturally widen. Pleated dress pants can better adapt to this change as the pleats spread to ease the stress on seams and improve your overall comfort. Pleats also give you extra room and greater freedom of movement when you’re walking, crouching, taking the stairs or dancing the night away at a wedding all while knowing you won’t bust a seam. Choosing Pleated Dress Pants Pleated dress pants are all about comfort, roominess, and flexibility.They’re great for active occasions that call for more movement or say if you have a long commute. Pleated pants are also the best choice for larger men and athletic types with muscular legs, both of whom stand to benefit from the spaciousness and comfortable utility that pleats provide. From the style side, pleated dress pants are a more traditional look. However, if the fit of the rest of the pants is just right, they can feel like a dapper nod to the menswear greats of decades past. We recommend choosing the pleated pants option if you value comfort > modern style, and if you have a little more ‘junk in the trunk’. Choosing Flat Front Dress Pants Flat front dress pants prioritize style over function. Due to their tighter and slimmer cut, they are most flattering on slimmer and average body types. Since you won’t have the benefit of the pleats to help smooth out any tight situations, make sure you pay extra attention to getting the fit of your pants just right.  Where perception is concerned, flat front dress pants have come to be the preferred look in recent decades thanks to the tapered, slim trend that has continued. That said, we think having a clean silhouette is always going to be a timeless look and even if pleats enjoy a renaissance someday, you’re not going to look sloppy when your pants fit well and look clean. So unless you need the pleats for comfort, we’d recommend flat front to most gents in most situations.

How long should my suit jacket sleeves be? And how much shirt cuff should be shown? Your Suit sleeve should end right above the top of your wrist bone (or the hinge of your wrist). In order to show the right amount of dress shirt cuff, the sleeve length must be perfect first. A properly fitting shirt sleeve should end at the base of your hand. Once these two are properly fitted, you’ll notice that naturally, some shirt sleeve cuff will show. The general rule of thumb is that you want to show 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of shirt cuff. Not showing any shirt cuff or showing too much of shirt cuff is a SIGN that the suit does not fit right or perfectly. It ruins the power of a fitting suit. It is a minor detail for some but for sartorialist like us it matters a lot. It is a detail if perfected will enhance the whole image. Suit Sleeves And Watches If you wear a watch, especially a larger-faced watch,  make sure you leave enough space under your cuff to accommodate the typical watch you would wear with that shirt. A shirt cuff should be able to go over and cover some of your watch when your arms are relaxed at your sides. We always make our shirts with bigger left cuff compared to right.

Suit pant breaks (how your pant legs meet your dress shoes and the kind of shapes that form) are mainly a matter of personal preference. That being said, the wrong dress pants break won’t flatter your body type, might not make the statement you think it does, and may not be appropriate for the environment or occasion. The biggest mistake is failing to make an intentional choice. If dress pant breaks are tripping you up, here’s what you need to know. What is The Pant Break? The “break” of the pant is the fold or creasing of fabric that forms at the front of your pant leg, just above where it meets your shoe, while you’re standing. An easier way to think about it is that the pant break is the point where the suit pants break its silhouette against the shoe. Note that the break is defined at the standing position and not while you’re walking, seated or doing squats. The cut of your suit pants, both the length and width (the circumference) of your pant legs, affect how generous or slight your pant break will be. Generally speaking, longer pants = more break. While that one’s a no brainer, wider pants = less break. That’s because the wider the circumference of your leg opening, the harder it will be for the pant fabric to make contact with your dress shoes, and so your break will be less defined. Slimmer leg openings, on the other hand, will hit your shoes earlier, which means they will form a break at a higher point and more readily. All this is to remind you that if you like wearing slimmer pants, the pant legs may need to be a bit shorter to accommodate your preferred break. More on that below. No Break Pants Pants with no breaks work best with pants that are slim and tapered so that the pant opening isn’t too wide. You won’t want to walk and have wide leg openings sashaying back and forth as you stride. Pant hem just reaches but does not rest on the top of the dress shoe Better with slim, tapered pants The modern look that gives off a youthful trendy vibe Easier to pull off for slimmer and/or taller gents Half Break Pants Given its versatility, the half break look can work with both slimmer pants and those that are less tapered and more straight leg. Men who are shorter will benefit in particular from a combination of a slimmer fit and the slightly longer length, which can help create an elongating visual effect. Get the fit right on the rest of the pants (we always suggest bespoke) and a half break will look clean, polished and classically well-dressed on just about everyone. Pant hem makes solid contact with the front of the shoe and forms a slightly visible wrinkle Works with slimmer and straight leg pants A versatile option that works in any context Works for men of any build or height but particularly effective for shorter gents Full Break Pants In addition, with the longer pant length involved and the fact that this look is most often paired with a less tapered pant leg, this look will often be the best option for men who are heavier set. Pant hem forms a single, generous but elegant wrinkle above where it meets the shoe, often covering most of the shoelaces Found on straight-leg, less tapered pants The most conservative choice that is always office-appropriate Works particularly well for heavier-set gents

Bangkok is a city of angels. Along with skyscrapers, shopping malls, nightlife; you come along hoards of tailors along the busy streets of Bangkok. Tailoring has been in Thailand since the early 20th century and counting to do good business. But among thousands of tailors, who you choose as your tailor. Who is the right bespoke tailor in Bangkok? There are few signs one can look out for choosing the right bespoke tailor. We summarize below a short guide you should consider during your search. #1 Reputation – Word of mouth Reputation and the years of operation matters alot. If the Bangkok tailor has been operating since a long time then naturally people in the town know about them and have something to say. The fact that if it is operating for so long, it means the business has been growing and word of mouth is strong. Universal Tailors has been operating since 1985 and in its 3rd generation. Reputation also comes from online reviews, press releases and testimonial. Online reviews on Google, Tripadvisor and other sites play a huge factor. As they are unbiased and cannot be influence by the business owner. Press release shows credibility. Shows that it stood the test of time and has been picked up by top publications for its excellence. #2 Style advice – consultancy? Chat with the client in order to establish their needs and personal expectations is important. This may include their work and background or the circumstances in which they will primarily be wearing their suit. It helps to narrow down the selection of fabric swatches to show to the customer from the hundreds that are available. The final choice is of course down to the individual, but we try and guide them towards something suitable that we know is likely to meet their needs. And then going through various customization options to the suit one of a kind that fits the clients personality and make sure it stands out from the rest. #3 Turnaround time – It takes time to make a good suit Quality takes time. The process of creating a suit requires experienced workmanship and consists of shaping, pressing, reshaping, stitching, measuring etc., until your suit is perfect. Moreover, there can be anywhere from 3-5 fittings required before a final product can be confidently handed over. If you are looking for quality, forget about 24-hour delivery. Minimum turn around time at a proper tailor shop is going to be about 3-5 working days for a standard wool blend fabric suit and 6-12 working days for a high end one (further depending on the construction of your garment). #4 Price – Visible price list indicates transparency and trust Bangkok tailors are known to hike prices for the sake of negotiations. They intentionally raise prices as they know customers will try to cut their prices as Bangkok is known for the place to bargain. We believe in transparency. We charge a flat price depending on the fabric quality keeping the construction and inlays like lining, buttons standard. We do not allow negotiations and we do not charge extra for any customization. Naturally, if the price is too good to be true, the tailor shop is likely compromising on fabric and/or workmanship, and your new suit may not the have best chances to stand the test of time (an example of a this would be a full suit in an Italian fabric for $250 – definitely too good to be true). Final thoughts on choosing the right bespoke tailor in Bangkok Overall, the above blueprint isn’t by any means bulletproof, but sticking to it will help you get closer to finding the right tailor in Bangkok who can offer good quality for a good price. If you are looking for a tailoring house with immense experience and history behind it while getting your new suit, you are always welcome to visit Universal Tailor and talk to our tailors and style consultants. Our store is located less than 5-7 minutes walking from BTS Chongnonsi in Bangkok.

Conor McGregor may be best known for his fighting, but the UFC champion has another skills: dressing like a boss. The Irishman’s outfits are indeed just as killer as his moves, which is why many men are looking to him for fashion ideas and advice. In this article, we’ve rounded up McGregor’s best looks for you to channel.  Those sleek three-piece suits look will have you looking both tough and on-trend in no time at all. Conor McGregor Suit Smart tailoring is a key aspect of Conor McGregor’s iconic style. The superstar fighter is regularly seen sporting sleek and stylish suits for an array of events. In particular, he often chooses to don classic three-piece designs, which include a waistcoat. When it comes to colours, grey and blues are some of his favourite hues, but he’s not afraid to rock a print either, such as cool checks or sharp stripes. Conor McGregor Blue Suit The best way to follow Conor McGregor’s sharp style is to invest in a tailored or bespoke blue suit or two. Be it rich navy or a midnight hue, blue suits are a McGregor favourite. To rock one like Conor himself, team your blue suit with a white shirt. Then, add a tie and pocket square in either a matching blue tone or a highlight colour, like pink. Conor McGregor Grey Suit Grey is another suit colour that McGregor often dons, and it’s one you can easily rock too. Thanks to the vast variety of tones available, grey suits can look great on all gents. All you need to do is find the shade that’s right for you. Then, make like McGregor and team your grey suit with a white, pink or baby blue shirt for a seriously stylish look. Conor McGregor Check Suit While Conor McGregor’s style is always slick, it can also be quite bold. A perfect match for his strong personality, eye-catching and exciting ensembles are a McGregor favourite. For an easy way to channel his adventurous style, try rocking a check suit. Whether it is in maroon, grey, blue or salmon colour, a check suit will instantly add a touch of McGregor flair to any formal look. Conor McGregor Tuxedo As one of the world’s biggest sporting stars, Conor McGregor is invited to the world’s biggest parties, many of which require him to dress to the nines. For such occasions, Conor often rocks a tuxedo. To wear a tux like the UFC star, try choosing a two- or three-piece design in classic black or bold maroon. Also, ensure the fit is on point by visiting a tailor before the big event.

Fashion matters more in politics than we’d imagine. And we are the fashion police in political sphere. Donald Trump taping his ties is the proof that he may be unfit to lead the nation. And at the recent Democratic debate several candidates attempted to use style as a way to silently send a message. Ties no longer required The entrepreneur-turned-presidential hopeful Andrew Yang is Silicon Valleys choice for the Oval.  While all the other male candidates during both nights of debate wore a full suit and tie, Yang made the relatively dangerous choice of ditching both a tie and the top button of his shirt. The Valley, in the minds of some, is synonymous with innovation and an ingenious—and tech-minded—approach to the problems ailing a nation. And they did it all dressed-down in T-shirts and shorts—anything but a suit. Yang’s tiny bare chest is a signal that he’s not some Washington drone but instead a candidate willing to think outside the box. Personally, we ourselves don’t like to wear the tie unless its required. What can brown (and navy) do for you? Liz Mair, a former communications director for the Republican National Committee, and Erick Erickson, a conservative commentator/blogger, sparked a little debate of their own last night when the latter brought up the topic of wearing brown shoes with navy suit. This…was a worse debate than the one between the candidates. For years, the idea of wearing a navy suit with black shoes was taboo—too many dark shades! Brown shoes with your navy suit, meanwhile, became the respectable combo.

With spring and summer on the clock, lighter weight suits and jackets in more casual forms comes into foreplay with the desire for a less structured feel. Integral to this is the the soft shoulder – a lightly padded shoulder construction, giving a softer, more casual silhouette to a tailored jacket. Soft shoulders have little padding and follow the contour of the individual’s shoulder to accentuate the wearer’s natural features. Traditionally favoured by Europeans, particularly Italian tailors, and further afield with American tailors, the soft shoulder is becoming more popular, especially among younger customers. Traditionally there would a built up shoulder, with heavy roping to give a larger sleeve head that extends upward at the shoulder seam. This type of shoulder has thicker internal padding and a thicker sleeve head, resulting in a more pronounced sleeve head roll. A soft shoulder is the opposite of this. In general, our business suit customers tend to opt for a more structured shoulder choice, with padding to hold the shape of the fabric and create a stronger silhouette. The soft shoulder option is more commonly selected for casual wear – in sports jackets and blazers for example – with the natural sleeve head roll, less structure and less padding all combining to create a more relaxed overall look. Individuals with broad shoulders or square shoulder are generally well suited to a soft shoulder construction, as they have less need to create added structure in this area. On the other hand, those with sloping and less defined shoulders benefit from the structure that the prouder sitting, more padded, roped shoulder can provide. This is where the expert advice and guidance of your tailor comes in.

What are surgeon cuffs on a men’s suit? You must have heard about them during a conversation with a tailor or someone who’s a suit-enthusiast. One line answer would be: they are functional button on suit jacket sleeves. They also called working button holes. Lets look back. In the early 19th century, military doctors or surgeons were asked to wear suit jackets. And in the middle of the battle while treating wounded soldiers, more often or not doctors would stain their jackets. The ever practical tailors on Savile Row in London introduced functional buttons on the cuffs of a jacket’s sleeve, so that the doctors could roll their sleeves up when needed. Since then, surgeon cuffs have been synonymous with carefully crafted and high-end men’s suits. Lets dig deeper. Historically, Savile Row neighborhood of London is associated largely by doctors. After few decades, the neighborhood changed and tailors began to set up shops in the area. During the transition period, the tailors started making suits for doctors with functional buttons, thus the name of surgeon cuff  was born. How to use them? Move forward to this day and age, surgeon cuffs are considered one of the prominent feature of a quality handmade suit. You don’t find them in off the rack or MTM suits. They are a true hallmark of custom made suits. It looks elegant when you notice the last button of the suit cuff unbuttoned.  Its a sartorial heritage to men’s fashion. You could also opt to use a contrasting buttonhole on the last button of your suit. Its a subtle bespoke details on the cuff that differentiate your suit from peers and reflects your personality. Its important to know that once the cuff on your suit jacket are made working, the sleeve length can not be modified. You have to be sure of the sleeve length on your suit jacket. Use a quality tailor and you will be in good hands.

Should you opt for belt in your suit trousers or no? There are different school of thoughts in this topic. A traditionalist would strongly say with full confidence “YES” while a fresh new graduate would consider belt to be optional. There isn’t a right or wrong answer to this question. There is some guidelines and occasion to when to wear a belt and when to skip it. We will make your life easier below:  Belts are common men’s accessory when dressing up in a suit nowadays. But it wasn’t back in early 20th century. Back then suits didn’t have belts but rather had pull-tabs or side adjusters on the waistband to accommodate any minor fluctuation in weight.  Suspenders were used when a little extra lift was needed. It wasn’t until suits went into mass production with standardized sizing and off-the-rack shopping that belt loops were introduced. Over time, the belt had become an acceptable office standard. Rules dictated that the belt should match or complement the shoes and be streamlined in design. So you wear your suit with a belt, and that’s totally fine if it’s used as an accessory to complete your look. But when you have a perfectly tailored bespoke suit, the belt should not act as a item to keep your pants sliding off. Rather it should be an accessory that enhance the look. A rule of thumb is the more formal the occasion is, the less likely the belt is needed. That’s is why you never see a belt in tuxedos or black tie suit. So if there is no belt, opt for button side tabs or metal side adjuster like below. Final Verdict At the end of the day, it comes down to the belt loops. If you’ve got them, you should use them. If no loops are present, mystery solved. Keep in mind that regardless of belt choice, your pants should be tailored to fit your body. A belt holding up too-big balloon trousers looks sloppy. If you’re opting for a belt even occasionally, remember that it’s an accessory, not a necessity. And if it’s an option in your wardrobe, going beltless ensures a cleaner, leaner, more streamlined silhouette that will set you apart in the best way. And without belt, you need not worry about matching your shoes color and design with your belt.

Dress shirt collars comes in various shapes, sizes and style. Understanding and utilizing the collar is an important lesson in men’s fashion. The choices are limited if you buy MTM shirt or off the rack shirt; that’s the beauty of getting a hand made custom shirt. Men usually stick to a few collar shapes; but becoming confident with all the small details of a collar broaden your fashion sense and enable a man to add his personal style to the dress shirt.  The right collar can change the tone of an outfit from average to amazing. We believe in having a mix of collar styles in your wardrobe; don’t stick to one. To suit every occasion possible, play around with every collar; right from wide cutaways to button downs; etc. Most bloggers or brands would suggest you to get a collar that correlate with your face – e.g. if you have a long face, you should be using spread collars or if you have a square face, you should avoid point collar. We think this is complete nonsense and complicate things. One can enjoy all sort of collars and adapt them to fit your personality and style. Avoid following someone else rules that is based on one’s self opinion. Bottom line is to a shirt that fits and collars that looks good and you are comfortable in. Add your personal style in the collar and experiment with them. Read below on our complete guide: Point collar Our most traditional collar, and often thought of as a more American collar. It has a narrower distance between the two collar points and, when buttoned, a smaller enclosure for a tie knot. An excellent choice and a classic look for the office.  There is less room between the collar leafs than in a spread collar, which means it’ll accommodate a slimmer tie knot rather than a larger one. You’re a no-nonsense traditionalist who appreciates the classics. A work-horse collar and recommend to wear with a tie. Semi-Spread collar   A very popular collar alternative to the point collar is semi-spread collar. It accommodates a larger and smaller tie with ease. The spread gives a classic look and timeless option. This collar style accommodates both small and large tie knots due to the space between the collar leafs. Semi-Spread collars are generally very versatile and can be worn easily with a jacket and tie or on their own. One of the most popular choice. But if you have awfully big neck, would suggest to go for spread collar. Spread Collar Called English spread collar, this collar has become more popular in recent years. It’s great to show off your tie knot. Looks confident and classy when worn with the collar button undone. The spread collar shirt is really your “no wrong answer” kind of shirt. It works in just about every situation imaginable, won’t get you in trouble for any kind of employer dress code/style violation and just looks damn good. Too easy.  Most versatile collar and suit everyone. Cutaway Collar A cutaway collar is a bold, modern and sartorially-advanced style choice. Following the rigid, longer and narrower collars of the 1920s, the cutaway collar dress shirt emerged in the 1930s. The cutaway collar is not for everyone. It is the most fashion forward collar. If you’re at all on the fence about it, go with a spread collar instead. But if it’s your thing, it can be easily become “your look” for just about every kind of occasion, ranging from office to date to wedding. Confidence to wear the collar is the key. Button-down Collar This collar fastens the collar points to the body of the shirt with buttons. It is gaining popularity more recently in business casual looks. The button down was originally invented for polo players to keep their collar points from moving during matches. It is best worn with collar button undone. Looks perfect with casual untucked shirt and also semi-formal shirt. Must not wear with a tie. Wing collar This is a collar band with small collar points turned down at the front neck. Used for formal gatherings with a tuxedo this collar is not part of an everyday wardrobe. The “wings” hold your bowtie in place. Modern men have moved to wearing their bowties with point and spread collars in finer fabrics.

Hopsack is basically the name of the weave, not a fabric name. Hopsack varies in terms of the weight, twist and how tightly or loosely the fabric is woven. It is basically a lightweight wool fabric and go-to fabrics in summers. It has a basket weave texture which gives a very different feel to tailored garment; which is a good thing as it adds some character to the garment. According to us, its better than plain weave as it separates from trousers and make it not look like a full suit. Modern hopsacks are soft, very breathable and crease resistant. This makes a perfect travel blazer as it beautifully creases out after folding them in your luggage. The rough texture of the fabric makes a obvious choice for blazer as it does incredibly well with denims and chinos. And also looks formal in two or three piece suit. On a whole, its a very versatile garment. PROS OF HOPSACK – Lightweight and breathable. Half lined jacket would be great for this fabric. – Natural wrinkle resistance due to woven texture. – Forgiving drape, easier to tailor. – The coarse texture creates a more casual, wearable garment. CONS OF HOPSACK Due to its open weave, this fabric is delicate and sensitive to rubbing – this is the reason why it is less used in elegant trousers tailoring. Hopsack trousers risk indeed damaging or snagging easily on the crotch. To conclude, the very loose and airy structure does make it breathable, but not heat/cold-proof. That’s why it is considered as a summer and spring fabric, less autumn and definitely not winter. We carry good selection of hopsack fabrics both in Asian all wool fabric and from renowned Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico. Check it out!

Business suit help you close business For business attire or business suits, the color is straight forward. The standard color for suits are navy or grey. The choice is limited but it STILL needs to be done right. There is no other color that looks smarter or flatter one’s skin better than these two colors. Black is too boring, brown isn’t for everyone and light tan or grey is on the casual side. The color needs to be dark for business and again not that dark that looks like almost black. Navy is the gold standard for business suit. Sometimes men end up buying too dark navy, that is midnight navy blue. Which looks close to black. Midnigh navy looks pale and pasty. On the other hand, mid blue have become very popular over the years, particularly at weddings. Mid blues would be too strong color for most offices. In general, the paler and brighter a colour the more casual it is, so if you want to wear a colour like this, have it in something more casual, like a linen jacket. Navy is serious, professional and yet interesting enough in terms of colour combinations. Midnight blue looks smart with a white shirt and black shoes, but that’s about it. Navy, on the other hand, also looks good with those accessories, but brings out chocolate-brown shoes as well. And a blue shirt under a navy suit provides a great background for experimentation with colour in the tie or handkerchief – strong colours against black just look cheap. Suitable color for business suit Most of this applies to greys as well. Sometimes men wear grey that is way too dark and looks almost like black and with little texture. Generally, there are really two good categories of grey that can be worn for business: charcoal and mid-grey. Charcoal is a sober and professional, and works particularly well in flannel, but (like navy) it cannot be mistaken for black. Mid-grey, however, is kindest of all the suit colours on skin tones – it compliments a good tan, but it doesn’t wash out the pasty. It is for that reason that I would recommend creating a business wardrobe (or commissioning their your bespoke suits) in navy, charcoal and mid-grey. Mid-grey might feel a little adventurous. It is a touch lighter than the grey suit you would instinctively buy for business. Don’t be afraid – it will look perfectly serious with a blue shirt, dark tie and deep-brown Oxfords. But it will also work wonderfully in a casual summer setting, with a white shirt, mid-brown shoes and perhaps a white linen handkerchief. Should I pick a pattern? If you are getting your first bespoke suit, make it plain. There is enough aspect of the suit to be worried about like; fit, style, color, customization. When we say plain, it means twill weave. That is a very fine diagonal line running across the fabric. Worst wool (the material that most suits are made of) is rarely plain. There are twills, pinheads, pick on pick which come across as plain but its not. In general, minor patterns is a good thing. Its gives character to the suit. Unless the desired look is upmost formal, a little pattern or texture adds to the interest of the suit and contrast nicely with tie and shirt. So consider those little patterns to be nothing more than texture. Herringbone is often a good option for a second or third suit; essentially a broken twill, it adds a touch of interest without sacrificing seriousness.

The pocket square is a cultural relic. In ancient Egypt, nobles wore pocket squares made of Chinese silk. Later, Greeks carried perfumed cotton cloths to remove sweat, creating an ancient antiperspirant. In Medieval Europe, knights would carry handkerchiefs close to their chest as proof of a lady’s favor. Pocket squares have been integral to cultures across millennia. Although they trace back to ancient Egypt, the pocket square is a modern wardrobe staple. They’re tucked into the pockets of modern style icons, real and fictional. Every James Bond has worn one, and John F. Kennedy (perhaps the most stylish president) was rarely seen without one adorning his suit. Today’s pocket square is more about style than utility, but it makes a big difference in an outfit. Whether cotton, linen or silk, plain, patterned or printed, one of these square pieces of cloth has the potential to pull an average tailored look into the A-grade. Why Wear a Pocket Square? Pocket squares polish an outfit without making you look like you care a lot about your appearance. After all, you are the focus—not your clothes. It can also make a good suit look even better. A pocket square in a solid color tones down a patterned suit. Worn with a solid suit, a patterned pocket square (or a solid one in a contrasting color) makes the outfit more interesting. Pocket squares fit every man’s lifestyle. They’re formal enough for a black-tie event but casual enough for happy-hour drinks. It all depends on how you style it. When to wear a Pocket Square? Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later). However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket square rule. We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear a pocket square? The answer to that is not really. Once you become a regular square wearer you’ll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house without your shoes. It’s really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a very conservative look choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighter than your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little bit of contrast such as a navy square with polka dots. MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE One question we often get asked is around whether you should be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no in modern dress. Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. So although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top of your style game. Plain colour styles are an absolute must, their simplicity and lack of pattern making them easy to match with your ensemble. Especially worthwhile investing in when taking your first steps into pocket squares is a classic white version – now widely considered as much a wardrobe essential as the Oxford shirt or Derby shoe. Once you’ve got your plain color bases covered, it’s time to introduce pattern. Prioritise timeless motifs – think paisley, polka dots and checks – in rich jewel tones like burgundy, navy, and bottle green, as well as fail-safe neutrals like white, grey and black. POCKET SQUARE FOLDS While the color and pattern of your pocket square can say a lot about your fashion sense and color coordination skills you should also know how to fold or not fold your pocket square. The PUFF The puff ‘fold’ is the easiest and most casual way to wear a pocket square. All you have to do is lay the pocket square flat out on a table and pinch it up from the center. Once you have achieved this gently tuck the corners of the pocket square into your jacket breast pocket. This fold works best with silk pocket squares that are larger, so that they do not disappear in your pocket. Edged Puff The Edged Puff is a variation of the Pocket Square Puff Fold, where the edges that are tucked into the breast pocket are now fold back up so they are showing behind the ‘puff’.  The Edged Puff is one of our favorite ways of wearing a pocket square as it shows color and style with both the puff and the pocket square edges being displayed. Square Fold The Square Fold works well with linen or cotton pocket squares given that their fabric structure is slightly more rigid than silk, helping to keep the pocket square’s edges in place. Hence, a square fold is ideal for business / formal settings. One-Point Fold A super classic way to interpret pocket squares, the one-point fold displays a triangle shape peeking out through your pocket. This fold is more noticeable than the conservative square fold, and is recommended for most looks featuring pocket squares. A higher quality silk is recommended. Three-Point Fold One of the more complicated folds, this style should be approached when you feel more comfortable wearing pocket squares. Otherwise known as the Crown Fold, this style works well with simplistic silks as well as deeply coloured patterns, adding dimension to your formal looks. This is for when you are really going formal with your pocket square or if you want to really make a statement with it. This fold is also one of the toughest to get right. The Different Types of Materials Pocket squares are generally made from silk, cotton, and linen. Wool is sometimes thrown into a fabrication, and

Interestingly, most men think about cotton or linen fabrics first. Also, the lightness of the fabrics seems to be the number one criterium, but these are only two aspects of warm weather menswear. Therefore we created this guide where we explain what to look for in hot weather clothing. Although a summer suit needs more than just one characteristic in order to be  worn comfortably, the most important aspect is neither weight nor the choice of material – it is breathability. High Breathability Due to Loose Weave & Lack of Lining When it is hot, you definitely want to feel every breeze coming your way, and the best way to do so is with an open-weave fabric. Loosely woven fabric such as basketweave fabric, is usually popular in summer and achieves the desired cooling effect. When you hold a piece of this fabric against the light, you can see through the weave of the cloth, even it if is dark navy. If the fabric is a heavier weight, it will also keep you cooler than a featherweight cotton fabric that is tightly woven. The more open the weave, the more patterned your fabric should be to keep it from becoming see-through. However, bear in mind that lighter colors are better than darker ones since light-colored cloth reflects the sunlight whereas dark cloth absorbs it, making you feel warmer. Also, you want to make sure that you get at least a half-lined jacket because, again, the finer weave of the lining will decrease your garment’s ability to breathe. Half-lined denotes that the back does not have any lining except for the top, and fully unlined usually means that there is no lining except in the sleeves. Once you have settled on an open-weave, you can turn to choosing the weight of your suiting fabric. Fortunately, modern high-quality fabrics have a beautiful finish, and although the drape is not perfect, they are still the way to go.  7 ounces (210 grams) summer fabrics usually have very open weaves and you should seek out specific summer fabrics for summer suits, because even though some fabrics may be lightweight, the weave may be too dense for summer. A popular summer fabric choice is Tropical. Basically all big mills offer their take on it, and it is simply an open weave worsted wool fabric. It’s generally softer than fresco but also not as breathable. Overall, it is a good choice, but if you want increased air flow you have to go with something else. Linen for Summer? Linen is a classic summer fabric because of its light weight, open weave and casual fabric structure. It is usually a little coarser than fine merino wool or cotton fibers., and it wrinkles graciously. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will appear anything but dapper. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will look a bit wrinkled but in a sophisticated way. For the office, you need to be able to pull it off because many people will just think it is a wrinkled suit. Classic linen summer suit colors include tobacco brown, beige or khaki tones, but you can also go with blue. If you go with the latter, be sure to get a lighter shade of blue than you would for a wool business suit because it underlines the summer character. If you want to do something special, you can also opt for unusual colors such as sky blue linen suit. Summer Cotton For most men, cotton seems to be a default choice during the summer. Now, there is a lot of cotton on the world market, but there are huge differences in terms of fiber length and thickness. In regard to summer clothing, the weave is more important. For example, khaki colored twill trousers or fine “summer” corduroy are not desirable since they impede air circulation. Instead, try to look for open weave poplin fabric. If you cannot see through the fabric when holding it against the light, it is not well suited for warm summer weather.

Buying a bespoke suit is an investment, and as with any investment, your suits should be well cared for. This is important in order to preserve their appearance and maximise their life span. The first thing to understand is that when you first start to wear a new bespoke suit it will begin to settle in and you’ll get a much better feel for the fit. It’s worth remembering that bespoke clothing differs from ready to wear, in as much as the garment shape will develop as it’s broken in. Cleaning Our advice is to dry clean your suits as rarely as possible as the chemicals used during the dry cleaning process strip out the natural oils found in the wool. This damages the cloth and in turn shortens the life of the suit. Ideally, a suit should be dry cleaned no more than twice a year but if more cleaning is required then remember a good dry cleaner will also be able to ‘spot clean’ any dirty areas. Regular pressing of your suit is fine, helping to remove creases and bring shape back into the garment. When selecting a dry cleaner it is worth spending a little more and going to one accustomed to dealing with bespoke suits. Brushing A suit needs to be regularly brushed, much like human hair, to ensure it looks its best. As well as removing dust, dirt and food particles, brushing helps to redistribute the natural oils in the cloth fibres which will prolong the life of your suit. We recommend you brush your suit after every wear and use a high quality, pure bristle brush. Rotation Don’t wear the same suit everyday! Over use is a sure fire way to shorten the life of your suit, wearing it out too quickly. Give your suit a chance to rest and breath in-between wear, alternating it with other clothing will help to increase its life span.