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ร้านตัดชุดที่ดีที่สุด By Life sara มองหาชุดสูทผู้ชาย เท่ๆ อยู่? เรารวมร้านตัดสูทผู้ชายคุณภาพดีมาให้แล้ว จะเป็นเสื้อสูทผู้ชายแฟชั่น ชุดสูทผู้ชายเกาหลี สูทสีกรม จัมพ์สูท ใดๆ ก็มีครบ

The 2022 Oscars ceremony was the most awaited red carpet event of the year, and it was indeed memorable. Looking past the Will & Chris incident, we got to witness celebs in their finest formal attire. Many played it safe, and the others took a risk to stand out – some risks paid off, and some were a miss. Nonetheless, everyone flaunted their unique sense of style with confidence and gave us something to talk about. The ladies sure did dazzle the red carpet with gowns that cost a fortune, but the guys also went to great lengths to impress. The dapper assortment of suits and tuxedoes was applause worthy, but who knew that men could be so good at accessorizing? The Oscars 2022 hosted an overwhelmingly fashionable crowd, but let me narrow it down to the top 5 best dressed men at the event: 1.     Jake Gyllenhaal If anyone tells you that blue and black don’t work well together, let Jake Gyllenhaal’s ensemble at this year’s Oscar red carpet prove them wrong. Gyllenhaal would look dashing in a potato sack, but this Givenchy suit is to die for; the Cartier watch is just the cherry on top. 2.     Andrew Garfield Andrew Garfield’s attire choice for the event sure was unusual, but in the best way possible. I mean look at how the suit fits – it’s impeccable. The burgundy colored velvet jacket works so well with the black satin shirt and that old-timey bow. Kudos to St. Laurent who made this look happen. 3.     Rami Malek Our favorite hacker, also known as Mr. Robot, wore Prada to the Oscars. With that attitude and those shades, he looked more charming than the devil himself. The overall look is conventional, but the execution is marvelous. The lapel pin and Cartier watch are a nice personal touch. 4.     Nikolaj Coster-Waldau Look who showed up looking like a white collar crime on the red carpet. Nikolaj proved that age is just a number and you can only wish you looked half as good in a white tuxedo. 5.     Dominic Fike Dominic Fike from Euphoria let the world know that glitter and sparkles aren’t just for the girls. The half unbuttoned satin shirt from St. Laurent paired with the flashy double-breasted jacket and black trousers was a sight for sore eyes. The only thing that didn’t quite match was the blue hair, but he is rocking it.

How To Have A Great First Date in SUIT Every holiday season, people like to couple up so they can create lasting memories. Whether you’re cuddled up in a snowy cabin or sunbathing on a beach, there’s something special about spending a sleepy day with someone you love. If you haven’t dated in a while, it can seem daunting to jump back into the scene.  But there are ways to approach dating with confidence. Here’s what you should do to have an awesome first date. Do Your Dating Homework Tinder bios can only tell you so much. To go beyond dating apps, take a look at your romantic prospect’s social media. If there’s a lull of silence, you can bring up something you’ve learned about them — just make sure you don’t overdo it or else it can come off as weird. Figure Out Why You’re On The Date Too often, people go on dates merely because they are bored. Though there’s nothing wrong with casual fun, it’s best that both people have aligned expectations. Before going on the date, ask yourself why you’re going on the date and how serious you’re looking to get. Are you trying to get to know someone on a more emotional and intellectual level? If you are, bring that energy to the date. Make Sure You’re Presenting The Best Version of Yourself On a first date, impressions are everything. The night before the date, get a good night’s sleep so you’re fully rested and energized. Leading up to meeting up, you should prioritize your personal hygiene by getting a haircut and doing your skincare routine. Change up your wardrobe and buy a new shirt and pants.  This could also be a chance to get an outfit that’s perfectly tailored and custom-made. Health-related insecurities such as hair loss or acne breakouts can take a serious toll on your confidence. If you’re experiencing these conditions, you should consider treatments for thinning hair or taking your skincare routine to the next level. Choose The Right Location When it comes to the location for your first date, you want to pick a spot that has good vibes and minimal distractions. Be careful with COVID-19 guidelines and choose a setting that makes you and your romantic prospect feel relaxed and at ease. At the end of the day, your health and safety should be a priority. Conversation Is Key A sign of a good date is that there aren’t that many awkward pauses of silence. If things are going well, the conversation should be flowing naturally. Since this is a first date, you should keep it light. Don’t bring up any overly serious topics like your past relationships. Make sure you ask them plenty of questions and treat them like the center of attention. Whether you love going on dates or find them to be incredibly nerve-wracking, cuffing season is here. But there’s no need to worry. If you follow these tips and relax, you will find that meeting new people is an enjoyable, thrilling adventure. Don’t take anything too seriously and remember that it’s about having a positive attitude.

How to Make Your Suit Last Longer You’ve finally invested in a quality suit, and you want to make sure it lasts as long as possible. Here are some tips. CLEANING Only clean your suit when it is physically dirty or stinky – meaning you’ve spilled something on it, or you sweat through it. Most suits are dry-clean-only, and you never want to over dry-clean a garment. Dry cleaning is a chemical wash that can wear down the fabric if you do it too often. Think of it like dipping the garment in a chemical that “scrapes away” the very surface layer of the fabric. Eventually the fibers begin to weaken. If your suit just needs a “refresher”, just have it professionally pressed. This is cheaper than dry-cleaning, and the heat and steam will kill most of the bacteria and clean it sufficiently in most cases. I have several suits that are a few years old that I have never dry cleaned. IRONING/STEAMING It’s a good idea to steam your suit before or after each wear. This brings it back to its natural state, and natural ‘hang”. This can be as simple as hanging it in the bathroom while you take a hot shower (pro tip). If you’re going to iron your suit yourself, make sure to use a pressing cloth (a piece of fabric, usually cotton, between the hot metal of the iron and the fabric of the suit). If you hit the fabric directly with an iron that is too hot, you risk “scorching” the fabric (making it shiny)…which is basically impossible to reverse. STORING After you take your suit off, always hang it up immediately. Don’t throw it in the hamper. Don’t toss it on the ground. Don’t throw it over a chair. Hang it on a proper hanger, with a pant bar and a full shoulder. This will allow it to return to its natural shape, dry out any moisture shape, and ultimately help it last longer. If you’re storing it long-term (ie. seasonally) keep it in a protective garment bag (or plastic cover) with a cedar hanger to keep the moths away. GIVE IT A BREAK Try not to wear a suit two days in a row. Like a pair of shoes, it’s a good idea to allow the garment to fully dry-out and catch its breath. Even a workhorse needs a break to perform its best. PACKING/TRAVELING Traveling? See our post on how to fold and pack a suit (and shirt) properly. Even better; get yourself a proper suit bag. ALTERING If you change weight/shape and the suit is not fitting as well as it could, consider getting it altered. A properly adjusted fit doesn’t just look and feel good, it also helps a garment last longer. An ill fitting garment can “pull” awkwardly on the fabric with movement, causing strain. Strain can lead to tears. FIXING TEARS If it rips on a seam, no problem, just have your local tailor/seamstress re-sew it together. It if rips off a seam, you might be in trouble. There are fabric “re-weavers” who can sometimes do miracles and are worth reaching out to, but best case scenario you will be left with a scar on the fabric wear the tear was.

Fresco Suit Godfather of summer suit, Fresco Suit. Fresco is a lightweight fabric made from tropical wool with a porous weave designed for maximum air circulation. It’s an ideal choice for hot and humid climates or for those who generally have higher body temperatures. The word “fresco” is derived from the Italian word “affresco”, which means “fresh”. The breathability of this cloth is comparable to that of pure linen, but without the wrinkling. In fact, Frescos are known to be naturally wrinkle-resistant due to their crisp fibers and open weave. If you’re worried about getting hot but don’t want the crinkle of linen suit, go with fresco. You will feel the breeze pass right through this refreshingly airy cloth. Additional colors of this fabric are available; contact us for details. We offer Fresco Suit in various mills from Italy and Asia.

Custom clothing seems to be trending at all levels, yet this is nothing new for the suit industry. Topping off the charts at the highest level of sophistication, comfort, and fit is the bespoke suit in Mens Fashion. The experience of designing a bespoke suit A top reason to make your suit bespoke is for the experience of designing and assembling a handmade suit. There is history attached to the experience which makes the process memorable and distinguishable from every other suit you acquire. There are years of tradition baked into the concept and most bespoke tailors have upheld many of the character building traits of having a bespoke suits made. Having a tailor at your site as a wardrobe consultant is an experience in itself when you are being made to look your best. Bespoke tailors typically have a ton of experience in matching a suit to a man, and they will pick up on styling elements that will compliment your features when you are deciding on styling options. Design your own style when creating bespoke suits It is advisable to brush up on your suit terminology and get familiar with the customization options you have available for selection. For example, knowing the difference between a full break, half break, and no break at all when the tailor asks you how you want your pant legs designed might be the difference in making the perfect suit. Everything is customizable when designing a bespoke suit. The patterns are made from scratch so you will have options on the designing the most original of every and anything you deem worthy of your attention. You will have the option to design and choose the style of your lapel, collar, sleeves, buttons, buttonholes, stitching, lining, pockets, etc. Everything you can see and touch on a suit is available for you to make your mark and influence the design. Once can customize to the next level. You can add embroidered initials and choose a fancy lining pattern. Many people will choose to have secret compartments or hidden pockets built into the suit for personal items that make the suit more functional. Highest level of comfort The comfort a bespoke suit provides is incomparable. The fact that patterns are drawn from scratch and measured precisely to the exact dimensions of your body. There are three subsequent fittings following the basted fitting. The process for assembling the bespoke suit can take up to 7 days with anywhere between 30-40 man hours. Legendary quality in Mens Fashion Bespoke suits are legendary for their quality. The fabric chosen to build the suit is always a head and shoulder above any suit you will find on a rack. The range in quality can differ greatly as you have the option to choose fabric from mills located anywhere in the world. Cashmere being one of the most luxurious types of cloth that are used to make a suit.

Dev Patel at the recent premiere of his new movie, The Personal History of David Copperfield, rocked the Double Breasted suit. He showed that even the fanciest aka formal, most corporate-leaning finance-legend suit can, worn the right way, becomes a legit party suit. There’s basically only one step involved here: chill out. Lose the tie. Open your shirt a couple buttons. And then…open your blazer. The open-swinging DB gives image of 80s boss in oversized tailoring, but Patel proves that—if everything fits like it should—it’s worth a shot at whatever the next red-carpet event in your life is. The suit is a bluish grey heavy sharkskin suit. Dev would a very chic low gorge peak lapel  DB style. For the most conservation, we can make the single breast version too. Shop the look now.

To pleat or not to pleat, that is the question. The question on pleated vs flat front when choosing dress pants demands an answer. Learning the differences between the two common dress pant styles will give you a sartorial advantage against the uninitiated. Plus, it will prevent you from committing a style blunder in public. Let’s explore more. Dress Pants Style In the early 2000s’, loose was out and skinny was in. Slim silhouettes were the shape of choice, and with them came flat-front pants and slimmed down legs that lead into the modern ‘no break’ hem. The slim-fit flat-front camp or the loose-cut pleated camp? The truth is, the fashion experts would like to have it both ways and tell you to keep up with the times and buy what’s “on-trend”. What Is The Purpose Of Pleats? Aside from aesthetic differences, pleated dress pants possess some functional utility that sets them apart from flat front options. When you sit, your seat (also known as your ass) and thighs naturally widen. Pleated dress pants can better adapt to this change as the pleats spread to ease the stress on seams and improve your overall comfort. Pleats also give you extra room and greater freedom of movement when you’re walking, crouching, taking the stairs or dancing the night away at a wedding all while knowing you won’t bust a seam. Choosing Pleated Dress Pants Pleated dress pants are all about comfort, roominess, and flexibility.They’re great for active occasions that call for more movement or say if you have a long commute. Pleated pants are also the best choice for larger men and athletic types with muscular legs, both of whom stand to benefit from the spaciousness and comfortable utility that pleats provide. From the style side, pleated dress pants are a more traditional look. However, if the fit of the rest of the pants is just right, they can feel like a dapper nod to the menswear greats of decades past. We recommend choosing the pleated pants option if you value comfort > modern style, and if you have a little more ‘junk in the trunk’. Choosing Flat Front Dress Pants Flat front dress pants prioritize style over function. Due to their tighter and slimmer cut, they are most flattering on slimmer and average body types. Since you won’t have the benefit of the pleats to help smooth out any tight situations, make sure you pay extra attention to getting the fit of your pants just right.  Where perception is concerned, flat front dress pants have come to be the preferred look in recent decades thanks to the tapered, slim trend that has continued. That said, we think having a clean silhouette is always going to be a timeless look and even if pleats enjoy a renaissance someday, you’re not going to look sloppy when your pants fit well and look clean. So unless you need the pleats for comfort, we’d recommend flat front to most gents in most situations.

How long should my suit jacket sleeves be? And how much shirt cuff should be shown? Your Suit sleeve should end right above the top of your wrist bone (or the hinge of your wrist). In order to show the right amount of dress shirt cuff, the sleeve length must be perfect first. A properly fitting shirt sleeve should end at the base of your hand. Once these two are properly fitted, you’ll notice that naturally, some shirt sleeve cuff will show. The general rule of thumb is that you want to show 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of shirt cuff. Not showing any shirt cuff or showing too much of shirt cuff is a SIGN that the suit does not fit right or perfectly. It ruins the power of a fitting suit. It is a minor detail for some but for sartorialist like us it matters a lot. It is a detail if perfected will enhance the whole image. Suit Sleeves And Watches If you wear a watch, especially a larger-faced watch,  make sure you leave enough space under your cuff to accommodate the typical watch you would wear with that shirt. A shirt cuff should be able to go over and cover some of your watch when your arms are relaxed at your sides. We always make our shirts with bigger left cuff compared to right.

Suit pant breaks (how your pant legs meet your dress shoes and the kind of shapes that form) are mainly a matter of personal preference. That being said, the wrong dress pants break won’t flatter your body type, might not make the statement you think it does, and may not be appropriate for the environment or occasion. The biggest mistake is failing to make an intentional choice. If dress pant breaks are tripping you up, here’s what you need to know. What is The Pant Break? The “break” of the pant is the fold or creasing of fabric that forms at the front of your pant leg, just above where it meets your shoe, while you’re standing. An easier way to think about it is that the pant break is the point where the suit pants break its silhouette against the shoe. Note that the break is defined at the standing position and not while you’re walking, seated or doing squats. The cut of your suit pants, both the length and width (the circumference) of your pant legs, affect how generous or slight your pant break will be. Generally speaking, longer pants = more break. While that one’s a no brainer, wider pants = less break. That’s because the wider the circumference of your leg opening, the harder it will be for the pant fabric to make contact with your dress shoes, and so your break will be less defined. Slimmer leg openings, on the other hand, will hit your shoes earlier, which means they will form a break at a higher point and more readily. All this is to remind you that if you like wearing slimmer pants, the pant legs may need to be a bit shorter to accommodate your preferred break. More on that below. No Break Pants Pants with no breaks work best with pants that are slim and tapered so that the pant opening isn’t too wide. You won’t want to walk and have wide leg openings sashaying back and forth as you stride. Pant hem just reaches but does not rest on the top of the dress shoe Better with slim, tapered pants The modern look that gives off a youthful trendy vibe Easier to pull off for slimmer and/or taller gents Half Break Pants Given its versatility, the half break look can work with both slimmer pants and those that are less tapered and more straight leg. Men who are shorter will benefit in particular from a combination of a slimmer fit and the slightly longer length, which can help create an elongating visual effect. Get the fit right on the rest of the pants (we always suggest bespoke) and a half break will look clean, polished and classically well-dressed on just about everyone. Pant hem makes solid contact with the front of the shoe and forms a slightly visible wrinkle Works with slimmer and straight leg pants A versatile option that works in any context Works for men of any build or height but particularly effective for shorter gents Full Break Pants In addition, with the longer pant length involved and the fact that this look is most often paired with a less tapered pant leg, this look will often be the best option for men who are heavier set. Pant hem forms a single, generous but elegant wrinkle above where it meets the shoe, often covering most of the shoelaces Found on straight-leg, less tapered pants The most conservative choice that is always office-appropriate Works particularly well for heavier-set gents

Bangkok is a city of angels. Along with skyscrapers, shopping malls, nightlife; you come along hoards of tailors along the busy streets of Bangkok. Tailoring has been in Thailand since the early 20th century and counting to do good business. But among thousands of tailors, who you choose as your tailor. Who is the right bespoke tailor in Bangkok? There are few signs one can look out for choosing the right bespoke tailor. We summarize below a short guide you should consider during your search. #1 Reputation – Word of mouth Reputation and the years of operation matters alot. If the Bangkok tailor has been operating since a long time then naturally people in the town know about them and have something to say. The fact that if it is operating for so long, it means the business has been growing and word of mouth is strong. Universal Tailors has been operating since 1985 and in its 3rd generation. Reputation also comes from online reviews, press releases and testimonial. Online reviews on Google, Tripadvisor and other sites play a huge factor. As they are unbiased and cannot be influence by the business owner. Press release shows credibility. Shows that it stood the test of time and has been picked up by top publications for its excellence. #2 Style advice – consultancy? Chat with the client in order to establish their needs and personal expectations is important. This may include their work and background or the circumstances in which they will primarily be wearing their suit. It helps to narrow down the selection of fabric swatches to show to the customer from the hundreds that are available. The final choice is of course down to the individual, but we try and guide them towards something suitable that we know is likely to meet their needs. And then going through various customization options to the suit one of a kind that fits the clients personality and make sure it stands out from the rest. #3 Turnaround time – It takes time to make a good suit Quality takes time. The process of creating a suit requires experienced workmanship and consists of shaping, pressing, reshaping, stitching, measuring etc., until your suit is perfect. Moreover, there can be anywhere from 3-5 fittings required before a final product can be confidently handed over. If you are looking for quality, forget about 24-hour delivery. Minimum turn around time at a proper tailor shop is going to be about 3-5 working days for a standard wool blend fabric suit and 6-12 working days for a high end one (further depending on the construction of your garment). #4 Price – Visible price list indicates transparency and trust Bangkok tailors are known to hike prices for the sake of negotiations. They intentionally raise prices as they know customers will try to cut their prices as Bangkok is known for the place to bargain. We believe in transparency. We charge a flat price depending on the fabric quality keeping the construction and inlays like lining, buttons standard. We do not allow negotiations and we do not charge extra for any customization. Naturally, if the price is too good to be true, the tailor shop is likely compromising on fabric and/or workmanship, and your new suit may not the have best chances to stand the test of time (an example of a this would be a full suit in an Italian fabric for $250 – definitely too good to be true). Final thoughts on choosing the right bespoke tailor in Bangkok Overall, the above blueprint isn’t by any means bulletproof, but sticking to it will help you get closer to finding the right tailor in Bangkok who can offer good quality for a good price. If you are looking for a tailoring house with immense experience and history behind it while getting your new suit, you are always welcome to visit Universal Tailor and talk to our tailors and style consultants. Our store is located less than 5-7 minutes walking from BTS Chongnonsi in Bangkok.

Conor McGregor may be best known for his fighting, but the UFC champion has another skills: dressing like a boss. The Irishman’s outfits are indeed just as killer as his moves, which is why many men are looking to him for fashion ideas and advice. In this article, we’ve rounded up McGregor’s best looks for you to channel.  Those sleek three-piece suits look will have you looking both tough and on-trend in no time at all. Conor McGregor Suit Smart tailoring is a key aspect of Conor McGregor’s iconic style. The superstar fighter is regularly seen sporting sleek and stylish suits for an array of events. In particular, he often chooses to don classic three-piece designs, which include a waistcoat. When it comes to colours, grey and blues are some of his favourite hues, but he’s not afraid to rock a print either, such as cool checks or sharp stripes. Conor McGregor Blue Suit The best way to follow Conor McGregor’s sharp style is to invest in a tailored or bespoke blue suit or two. Be it rich navy or a midnight hue, blue suits are a McGregor favourite. To rock one like Conor himself, team your blue suit with a white shirt. Then, add a tie and pocket square in either a matching blue tone or a highlight colour, like pink. Conor McGregor Grey Suit Grey is another suit colour that McGregor often dons, and it’s one you can easily rock too. Thanks to the vast variety of tones available, grey suits can look great on all gents. All you need to do is find the shade that’s right for you. Then, make like McGregor and team your grey suit with a white, pink or baby blue shirt for a seriously stylish look. Conor McGregor Check Suit While Conor McGregor’s style is always slick, it can also be quite bold. A perfect match for his strong personality, eye-catching and exciting ensembles are a McGregor favourite. For an easy way to channel his adventurous style, try rocking a check suit. Whether it is in maroon, grey, blue or salmon colour, a check suit will instantly add a touch of McGregor flair to any formal look. Conor McGregor Tuxedo As one of the world’s biggest sporting stars, Conor McGregor is invited to the world’s biggest parties, many of which require him to dress to the nines. For such occasions, Conor often rocks a tuxedo. To wear a tux like the UFC star, try choosing a two- or three-piece design in classic black or bold maroon. Also, ensure the fit is on point by visiting a tailor before the big event.

Fashion matters more in politics than we’d imagine. And we are the fashion police in political sphere. Donald Trump taping his ties is the proof that he may be unfit to lead the nation. And at the recent Democratic debate several candidates attempted to use style as a way to silently send a message. Ties no longer required The entrepreneur-turned-presidential hopeful Andrew Yang is Silicon Valleys choice for the Oval.  While all the other male candidates during both nights of debate wore a full suit and tie, Yang made the relatively dangerous choice of ditching both a tie and the top button of his shirt. The Valley, in the minds of some, is synonymous with innovation and an ingenious—and tech-minded—approach to the problems ailing a nation. And they did it all dressed-down in T-shirts and shorts—anything but a suit. Yang’s tiny bare chest is a signal that he’s not some Washington drone but instead a candidate willing to think outside the box. Personally, we ourselves don’t like to wear the tie unless its required. What can brown (and navy) do for you? Liz Mair, a former communications director for the Republican National Committee, and Erick Erickson, a conservative commentator/blogger, sparked a little debate of their own last night when the latter brought up the topic of wearing brown shoes with navy suit. This…was a worse debate than the one between the candidates. For years, the idea of wearing a navy suit with black shoes was taboo—too many dark shades! Brown shoes with your navy suit, meanwhile, became the respectable combo.

One of our personal favorite fabrics from our Spring/Summer 2019 collection is the Superfine Merino Worsted Suit in Steel Blue. We are always on the hunt for colors that are strong and unique, but also versatile and wearable. This beautiful cloth is the perfect year-round weight, has a subtle sheen and comes in the most stunningly original colors To give you an idea of how versatile a suit like this can be, here are different ways to style it for the Spring and Summer months (not that you can’t wear it long into the Fall, and even in the Winter with the right styling). GIVE SPRING THE BUSINESS: 3-PIECE The three-piece is strong and serious.  It means business. CLASSIC 2 PIECE 2 piece is classic; works for any occasion, whether its business or casual event like weddings. MIX IT UP: TROUSERS + JACKET Here’s the oldest trick in the book: take the accent color in a jacket and pair it with solid trousers in the same color family. The colors don’t have to be a perfect match – it’s actually more tasteful if they’re not to “matchy” (you should never look like you bought your clothes in a matching set).

The 90s was a turning point in bespoke clothing. Big retail brands began offering made-to-measure suits in their boutiques. Led by brands like Ermenegildo Zegna, bespoke services became more accessible. The meaning of bespoke suit Context is needed to understand how clothing is made from scratch. There are generally three types of clothing. The first is ready-to-wear, where an individual can come in and pluck an item off the shelf and wear it as is. These clothes are mass produced and people buy them anonymously. The second is made to measure. A person chooses from among a selection of styles, materials, and other details to create a finished product. Bespoke is about creating something that does not yet exist. It means painstaking process of measurement, pattern-creation, and an iteration of fittings. There are no exceptions; the client must be measured to get the specific characteristics and nuances of the body before the suit can be produced. From the measurements, a pattern is created. On this pattern, the tailor marks the precise areas for buttonholes and cuffs. These patterns cannot be used on another person because they go beyond simply measuring a body type; patterns make the DNA of the bespoke world, as unique to an individual as the millimeter difference in a shirt cuff when one’s arm is slightly shorter than the other. Unparalleled luxury Bespoke is the true unparalleled luxury standard in menswear. Price is not the issue because some made-to-measure or ready-to-wear suits can cost just as much as bespoke. (An expensive suit does not necessarily translate to lasting style.) The laborious process is also part of the allure of bespoke. We always mention it to our clients that to get something custom-made, there is a hurdle that you have to get over before you can order things. Custom made is not as easy as ready-to-wear. A relationship must also exist between tailor and client for the best results. A skilled tailor will not just take into account measurements and fabric, but also the customer’s lifestyle and personality. Even the client’s posture is considered, because it affects how the fabric falls on the body. Then there’s trust that bonds the two. There was no need for bespoke houses to advertise because a well-dressed gentleman was the living testimonial to a tailor’s skills.  Along with trust, a bespoke tailor needs to have the physical goods to fulfill sartorial visions. Reputable tailors have a library of materials at their disposal. Experience is also a key factor in choosing the right suit-maker. It is no coincidence that the most sought-after tailors come from houses with decades, if not centuries, of history. Training to become a bespoke tailor has its own life cycle. It involves years of education, apprenticeship, and developing technique. Each tailoring house has its own signature style as well. Kiton specializes in jackets with rounded shoulders that feature some rippling. Caruso suits feature high armholes. These distinctions aid the potential client in deciding which tailor is suitable. Read about our house style too.

Bangkok’s rainy season has begun, it’s time to think about what you will do to keep your custom suit in shape. This is especially important if you’ve opted for a fine fabric such as mohair or a cashmere blend. The most obvious advice for suit protection during rainy season is: always bring an umbrella! Don’t consider the umbrella just a tool, though; treat it as a fashion accessory and make sure its color and shape flatters your suit, whether black, navy or gray. Like the bowler hat of old, an umbrella was once a staple in every gentleman’s wardrobe.  Buy a solid umbrella that has a good handle so you can carry it like a cane. Even if it doesn’t rain, an umbrella makes a nice accessory for a suit. Secondly, invest in a trench coat or Mackintosh that looks good over your suit. It’s not difficult to match a suit with a trench coat, since the two garments seem to have been made for each other. Take a look below. Wear galoshes over your dress shoes to protect them from rain. Galoshes are over-sized, usually rubber shoes, that slip over your regular shoes to keep them from getting wet. You only need galoshes for heavy downpours or in areas with lots of standing water. If there’s only a light rain shower and you’ll just be outside for a few minutes, you probably won’t need galoshes. Take a cab or use public transportation to avoid walking in the rain in a suit as much as possible. If you don’t have your overcoat or umbrella, keep your suit as dry as possible. Lastly, what do you do when your suit gets wet? Let the wool breathe by hanging it on a contoured hanger away from heat sources. The hanger will support the natural shape of your suit, including the jacket shoulders. Whatever you do, avoid stress on your suit’s woolen fibers by throwing out all your wire hangers.

Check and Patterned Suiting is the best way to stand out in the crowd without being too LOUD. Like any sartorialist,  we plan our clothing months ahead. Our focus for Fall / Winter was new, bold patterns and unique ways to wear colour. Our three core checks for the season: A Bold Grey Windowpane, Burgundy Gun Check and Brown ‘Alpaca’ Check. Three options in three unique shades and patterns. Each having the versatility of breaking out into separates for upcoming Fall events and conferences. Some inspiration shots below. Grey Windowpane Check. The bold stand out check for the season. A grey and dark charcoal check, the fabric has texture which is unique for a windowpane suit. Subtle check from afar, bold up close. This pattern and color means business; no nonsense. It is still in dark grey color scheme which means serious and with the check it adds a distinctive feature. Brown and Blue Prince of Wales Check Chocolate suit with a blue glen check running through it. Unique way to wear brown. The Prince of Wales check creates a luxe visual interest and textured look, adding incredible depth to the fabric. We are against the no brown in town bullshit, brown is a unique color and only the one daring could pull it off. Burgundy Gun Check. New Burgundy Suit. The one suit that most men don’t have. A shadow double windowpane check in blue. Versatility and variation using the jacket alone as a blazer with a roll neck. Works perfectly for special occasion, weddings, casual events.

It is said that every person should have a high-quality formal garment in their wardrobes, right now you could probably list five occasions in which you would need to dress formally. These days a universally recognized formal outfit is the traditional suit. But when you go to the trouble of actually commissioning or purchasing a suit, you will quickly realize the myriad options available to you. Now “off the rack suits” are fairly self-explanatory, a premade suit that is then sometimes further fitted to your individual specifications. Tailored suits, however, are made from the ground up to your exact body shape and measurements and can be pretty much infinitely customized to your liking. So let’s look at some of the more important factors to consider when you are deciding between the two. Price The first thing that we have to discuss is, of course, the price differences between a fully tailored suit and an off the rack suit. Tailored Naturally, due to the eye for detail, expertise and time required to make a fitted suit you have probably already naturally guessed that this one will be more expensive. However, the payoff for this extra expense is to have a fully qualified professional tailor fully evaluate your body measurements from head-to-toe, provide you with expert advice on materials, stitching, styles and a whole host of other subjects. Usually resulting in a perfect fit and style of your liking. Off The Rack While off the rack suits are a lot less customizable than a fully tailored suit, they are significantly less expensive than a tailored suit. Most reputable tailors will ensure that their off the rack options are of an adequate quality meaning if you are looking for a slightly more budget-friendly option with room for extra adjustments, then an off the rack option may be better for you. Hand or machine made Tailored As we have said before, when you order and pay for a tailored suit, you are actually paying for the materials of your choice and the time for your tailor to actually sit with a needle or sewing machine and make the suit with his hands. Off the rack Practically all off the rack suits are made by large industrial machines with a template and set dimensions. You must decide whether this is an important factor for you when you are purchasing such an important item of formal wear. Customizability Off The Rack While you can most definitely find a wide variety of off the rack suits, they are limited to what is the most saleable for the company, not what individual customers will want. Tailored Whereas when you work with a tailor to craft a suit to your exact specifications, you can easily pick and choose between different exteriors, linings and button arrangements. We here at Universal Tailor offer a wide variety of both off the rack and bespoke tailored suits, to find out more about our products please click here.

With spring and summer on the clock, lighter weight suits and jackets in more casual forms comes into foreplay with the desire for a less structured feel. Integral to this is the the soft shoulder – a lightly padded shoulder construction, giving a softer, more casual silhouette to a tailored jacket. Soft shoulders have little padding and follow the contour of the individual’s shoulder to accentuate the wearer’s natural features. Traditionally favoured by Europeans, particularly Italian tailors, and further afield with American tailors, the soft shoulder is becoming more popular, especially among younger customers. Traditionally there would a built up shoulder, with heavy roping to give a larger sleeve head that extends upward at the shoulder seam. This type of shoulder has thicker internal padding and a thicker sleeve head, resulting in a more pronounced sleeve head roll. A soft shoulder is the opposite of this. In general, our business suit customers tend to opt for a more structured shoulder choice, with padding to hold the shape of the fabric and create a stronger silhouette. The soft shoulder option is more commonly selected for casual wear – in sports jackets and blazers for example – with the natural sleeve head roll, less structure and less padding all combining to create a more relaxed overall look. Individuals with broad shoulders or square shoulder are generally well suited to a soft shoulder construction, as they have less need to create added structure in this area. On the other hand, those with sloping and less defined shoulders benefit from the structure that the prouder sitting, more padded, roped shoulder can provide. This is where the expert advice and guidance of your tailor comes in.