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Fresco is a high-performance fabric made from tropical wool, featuring a porous weave engineered for maximum air circulation. This makes it an ideal solution for hot, humid climates and for those with higher body temperatures.   The fabric gets its name from the Italian word for “fresh,” affresco, and its breathability rivals that of linen. Crucially, however, Fresco is naturally wrinkle-resistant due to its crisp fibers and open construction. It offers the breeziness of linen without the crinkle, and it doesn’t necessarily appear like a typical summer fabric, making it a favorite for year-round wear among many of our clients.   Fresco fabric consists of a particular high-quality wool that is closely twisted and spun, resulting in a sleek and shiny texture. The close-knit structure of Fresco fabric imparts its distinctive lightweight and breathable features, making it comfortable for warm weather wear while also serving as an versatile suit fabric. Fresco fabric is recognized for its resistance to creasing, indicating that it wrinkles less than various other wool types. This has made it particularly attractive to clients who wear suits for business trips or prefer the concept of having “lower upkeep” while retaining the soft, natural high quality of their suit material. Regarding tailoring, Fresco fabric is favored for its lovelydrape and itsnatural, sophisticated look. It is fairly simple to handle during production and sewing, which makes it a suitable fabric for custom clothing. Consequently, Fresco fabric is commonly utilized in premium tailored clothing, as it brings an element of elegance and sophistication to the final piece that we, along with many clients, appreciate. In general, Fresco fabric is an ideal option for custom-made clothing, particularly suits, pants, and blazers. Its exceptional quality, wrinkle resistance, and sophisticated drape render it an ideal fabric for your upcoming bespoke luxury item.

A chore jacket, also known as a chore coat, is a durable, boxy-cut jacket with large patch pockets. Originally workwear for 19th-century French laborers, it is now a versatile fashion item that retains its utilitarian design. Despite a wide range of similar-looking workwear, the Chore Jacket has several defining characteristics. Originally, it was recognizable by its boxy, structured silhouette—straight along the shoulders and waist, without curves. It featured generously sized chest and lower pockets for holding tools and belongings. The original jacket was made from thick fabric, typically twill or canvas. Finally, it had large, durable, and loosely spaced buttons and buttonholes that were easy to fasten. Another key sign of a true vintage Chore Jacket is traces of wear and tear—like stains or small rips—reflecting its history as durable workwear meant for labor, a stark contrast to the perfectly pristine clothing favored by gentlemen of the past. Today, this worn look has become a fashionable trend.   Fashion has shifted the role of workwear, which is now freely mixed and matched rather than being purely heavy-duty. While the Chore Jacket has largely merged into the broader category of “Workwear,” it remains iconic. Today’s versions feature lighter fabrics suitable for various climates, diverse colors, and unique pocket designs. Crucially, they retain original utilitarian elements like easy-to-fasten buttons and foldable cuffs. Many brands even use distressing and ripping techniques to replicate the worn look of the original garment. The jacket’s enduring appeal lies in its universality and timelessness. Just as a suit defines formalwear, the Chore Jacket perfectly embodies the workwear aesthetic, letting modern wearers enjoy the raw charm of a classic item, even if they aren’t wearing it for labor. The chore jacket is more than just a passing trend—it’s a wardrobe anchor. By choosing a well-made version, you’re investing in a piece of clothing that will not only last for years but will actually look better the more you wear it.

Full Canvas Suit Construction extends the canvas from the upper portion of the jacket all the way to the hem. This complete layer provides superior support, excellent shape retention, and elegant drape—qualities that define high-end bespoke tailoring. However, because it involves more intricate stitching, full canvas construction is less frequently used than fused or half-canvas alternatives. A full canvas suit jacket features a layer of supportive fabric sewn throughout the entire front panel. This construction enhances the jacket’s shape, allows it to drape more naturally, and increases its durability. Due to the higher level of craftsmanship required, it’s generally more expensive than other construction methods. At the pinnacle of tailored craftsmanship, full canvas construction stands as the epitome of sartorial refinement and luxury.

Workplace culture has shifted significantly, moving away from the rigid 9-to-5 routine—and with it, the classic suit-and-tie dress code is fading. As a result, expectations around professional attire have evolved too. One of the most notable shifts is the rise of business casual, a concept that blends professionalism with comfort. While it might baffle those from previous generations, even many modern men still find the term unclear and open to interpretation. What Does Business Casual Mean for Men? Business casual for men is a contemporary dress code that strikes a balance between professional polish and relaxed comfort. It moves beyond the traditional suit-and-tie, offering a neat, intentional look without feeling overly formal. Admittedly, the definition can feel a bit ambiguous—and that’s because it is. Business casual can vary greatly depending on personal style, industry standards, and company culture. The goal is to look respectful while still expressing individuality. To help make sense of it all, we’re breaking down the key elements that will help you confidently craft a business casual outfit that’s both appropriate and authentic to you. The Evolution of Business Casual While “business casual” might sound like a modern concept, its origins go back several decades—shaped by cultural shifts and changing workplace norms. The concept of business casual emerged in the 1960s, when U.S. companies began introducing “Casual Fridays”—a move designed to boost employee morale by relaxing the dress code at the end of the week. Fast forward to the 1990s, and the tech boom in Silicon Valley brought a major shift. A new wave of CEOs and developers abandoned corporate formalities, favoring comfort and self-expression. Ties gave way to T-shirts, and dress shoes were swapped for sneakers—eventually influencing the broader corporate landscape. Today, business casual attire for men is widely accepted. However, what qualifies as business casual can still vary significantly depending on the region, industry, and specific company culture. TOPS Traditionally, a business top consisted of a dark, solid-colored suit jacket worn over a white long-sleeved dress shirt, paired with a matching black or dark-colored tie. To ease into a more relaxed business casual style, start by removing the tie. Leave the top button of your dress shirt undone and wear your suit jacket open for a more effortless look. If you still want to incorporate a blazer, pay attention to its color. Dark hues like black, navy, and charcoal maintain a more formal, classic business appearance. For a true business casual feel, opt for lighter shades such as beige, light blue, or grey—or experiment with non-traditional tones and patterns like coral, olive, or even subtle checks to inject personality while staying polished. BOTTOMS Equally important is the fit and style of your bottoms. Loose-fitting trousers project a laid-back feel, while very slim or tight-fitting styles can also come across as more casual, especially when paired with softer tops. Cropped pants or full-length trousers with a turned-up cuff add an extra relaxed element, helping to round out your business casual look with an effortless touch. Naturally, denim jeans are among the most casual options for business casual attire. While they’re widely accepted in many modern workplaces, not all styles are suitable for every office setting. The best choice for a polished yet relaxed look is slim-fit or straight-leg jeans in a dark wash, with a clean, non-distressed finish and a hem that rests neatly at the shoe. On the more casual end of the spectrum are baggy jeans, skinny fits, and bootcuts. Cropped or cuffed jeans also lean toward a more laid-back appearance. When it comes to color, the rule is simple: the lighter the wash, the more casual the vibe. Think stone-washed, medium blue, white, or even khaki jeans—all of which can work well for a softer take on business casual. Accessories Shoes speak volumes about your overall look. Classic leather Oxfords, Derbies, and Monk Strap shoes remain timeless choices—even in modern office settings—and pair well with most business outfits. For a more relaxed business casual vibe, consider loafers. Horsebit, penny, and tassel loafers are excellent options, especially when matched with chinos or dark jeans. They strike the right balance between sophistication and ease.

Silk, linen, and cotton are the most popular materials for a plain white pocket square, each offering unique characteristics, primarily in terms of weight and texture. Silk, renowned for its luxurious feel, is also excellent for its quality. The soft edges of silk pocket squares make them perfect for relaxed, unstructured folds. Additionally, their lightweight nature ensures they won’t create bulk in your pocket. Plain white linen is another popular choice for a pocket square, particularly during the summer months. With firmer edges than silk, a white linen pocket square is better suited for more structured folds, while its center retains enough flexibility for looser, unstructured options. Linen’s unique texture also adds contrast when paired with complementary fabrics such as those found in suits, blazers, or jackets. A plain white cotton pocket square, though closer in feel to a handkerchief, should not be overlooked. Lightweight, versatile, and easy to maintain, cotton is also the most affordable option of the three. However, it lacks the distinctive properties of linen and silk, meaning it won’t hold a fold as well or add the same textural depth to an outfit. When it comes to a plain white pocket square, every detail matters, and hand-rolled edges are essentially most elegant – they represent the highest standard of pocket square finishing. Once you’ve selected the right white pocket square, the next step is choosing the perfect fold. There are numerous options, and the fold you choose can be guided by the occasion. The plain white pocket square is a classic – one cannot go wrong with this. While choosing the right fabric, finishing details, and fold does require careful consideration, and take a bit of more time to give it an importance. After all, it’s the little details that make all the difference.

Seersucker is a fabric steeped in rich mythology, with one of its most enduring stories being its etymology. The word “seersucker” comes from the Hindi words shîr (milk) and shakar (sugar), which refer to the fabric’s characteristic texture—smooth in some places and bumpy in others. Like many classic menswear fabrics, seersucker traces its origins to India, specifically during the British Raj, when it first attracted Western attention. After making its way to the United States, it became a favorite in the American South for its ability to keep the wearer cool in hot weather. Today, seersucker is offered in over 30 different patterns, ranging from the traditional blue-and-white stripes to bold windowpane designs and contemporary solids. Whatever form your seersucker takes, it’s important to remember that the fabric’s charm lies in its relaxed nature. Whether you’re dressing it up for a wedding or wearing it casually to a racetrack, seersucker is best enjoyed when you embrace its easygoing spirit. Come visit your favorite Bangkok Tailor to tailor your next Seersucker Suit on your next Bangkok or Thailand trip.

How to Make Your Suit Last Longer You’ve finally invested in a quality suit, and you want to make sure it lasts as long as possible. Here are some tips. CLEANING Only clean your suit when it is physically dirty or stinky – meaning you’ve spilled something on it, or you sweat through it. Most suits are dry-clean-only, and you never want to over dry-clean a garment. Dry cleaning is a chemical wash that can wear down the fabric if you do it too often. Think of it like dipping the garment in a chemical that “scrapes away” the very surface layer of the fabric. Eventually the fibers begin to weaken. If your suit just needs a “refresher”, just have it professionally pressed. This is cheaper than dry-cleaning, and the heat and steam will kill most of the bacteria and clean it sufficiently in most cases. I have several suits that are a few years old that I have never dry cleaned. IRONING/STEAMING It’s a good idea to steam your suit before or after each wear. This brings it back to its natural state, and natural ‘hang”. This can be as simple as hanging it in the bathroom while you take a hot shower (pro tip). If you’re going to iron your suit yourself, make sure to use a pressing cloth (a piece of fabric, usually cotton, between the hot metal of the iron and the fabric of the suit). If you hit the fabric directly with an iron that is too hot, you risk “scorching” the fabric (making it shiny)…which is basically impossible to reverse. STORING After you take your suit off, always hang it up immediately. Don’t throw it in the hamper. Don’t toss it on the ground. Don’t throw it over a chair. Hang it on a proper hanger, with a pant bar and a full shoulder. This will allow it to return to its natural shape, dry out any moisture shape, and ultimately help it last longer. If you’re storing it long-term (ie. seasonally) keep it in a protective garment bag (or plastic cover) with a cedar hanger to keep the moths away. GIVE IT A BREAK Try not to wear a suit two days in a row. Like a pair of shoes, it’s a good idea to allow the garment to fully dry-out and catch its breath. Even a workhorse needs a break to perform its best. PACKING/TRAVELING Traveling? See our post on how to fold and pack a suit (and shirt) properly. Even better; get yourself a proper suit bag. ALTERING If you change weight/shape and the suit is not fitting as well as it could, consider getting it altered. A properly adjusted fit doesn’t just look and feel good, it also helps a garment last longer. An ill fitting garment can “pull” awkwardly on the fabric with movement, causing strain. Strain can lead to tears. FIXING TEARS If it rips on a seam, no problem, just have your local tailor/seamstress re-sew it together. It if rips off a seam, you might be in trouble. There are fabric “re-weavers” who can sometimes do miracles and are worth reaching out to, but best case scenario you will be left with a scar on the fabric wear the tear was.

To pleat or not to pleat, that is the question. The question on pleated vs flat front when choosing dress pants demands an answer. Learning the differences between the two common dress pant styles will give you a sartorial advantage against the uninitiated. Plus, it will prevent you from committing a style blunder in public. Let’s explore more. Dress Pants Style In the early 2000s’, loose was out and skinny was in. Slim silhouettes were the shape of choice, and with them came flat-front pants and slimmed down legs that lead into the modern ‘no break’ hem. The slim-fit flat-front camp or the loose-cut pleated camp? The truth is, the fashion experts would like to have it both ways and tell you to keep up with the times and buy what’s “on-trend”. What Is The Purpose Of Pleats? Aside from aesthetic differences, pleated dress pants possess some functional utility that sets them apart from flat front options. When you sit, your seat (also known as your ass) and thighs naturally widen. Pleated dress pants can better adapt to this change as the pleats spread to ease the stress on seams and improve your overall comfort. Pleats also give you extra room and greater freedom of movement when you’re walking, crouching, taking the stairs or dancing the night away at a wedding all while knowing you won’t bust a seam. Choosing Pleated Dress Pants Pleated dress pants are all about comfort, roominess, and flexibility.They’re great for active occasions that call for more movement or say if you have a long commute. Pleated pants are also the best choice for larger men and athletic types with muscular legs, both of whom stand to benefit from the spaciousness and comfortable utility that pleats provide. From the style side, pleated dress pants are a more traditional look. However, if the fit of the rest of the pants is just right, they can feel like a dapper nod to the menswear greats of decades past. We recommend choosing the pleated pants option if you value comfort > modern style, and if you have a little more ‘junk in the trunk’. Choosing Flat Front Dress Pants Flat front dress pants prioritize style over function. Due to their tighter and slimmer cut, they are most flattering on slimmer and average body types. Since you won’t have the benefit of the pleats to help smooth out any tight situations, make sure you pay extra attention to getting the fit of your pants just right.  Where perception is concerned, flat front dress pants have come to be the preferred look in recent decades thanks to the tapered, slim trend that has continued. That said, we think having a clean silhouette is always going to be a timeless look and even if pleats enjoy a renaissance someday, you’re not going to look sloppy when your pants fit well and look clean. So unless you need the pleats for comfort, we’d recommend flat front to most gents in most situations.

How long should my suit jacket sleeves be? And how much shirt cuff should be shown? Your Suit sleeve should end right above the top of your wrist bone (or the hinge of your wrist). In order to show the right amount of dress shirt cuff, the sleeve length must be perfect first. A properly fitting shirt sleeve should end at the base of your hand. Once these two are properly fitted, you’ll notice that naturally, some shirt sleeve cuff will show. The general rule of thumb is that you want to show 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of shirt cuff. Not showing any shirt cuff or showing too much of shirt cuff is a SIGN that the suit does not fit right or perfectly. It ruins the power of a fitting suit. It is a minor detail for some but for sartorialist like us it matters a lot. It is a detail if perfected will enhance the whole image. Suit Sleeves And Watches If you wear a watch, especially a larger-faced watch,  make sure you leave enough space under your cuff to accommodate the typical watch you would wear with that shirt. A shirt cuff should be able to go over and cover some of your watch when your arms are relaxed at your sides. We always make our shirts with bigger left cuff compared to right.

Suit pant breaks (how your pant legs meet your dress shoes and the kind of shapes that form) are mainly a matter of personal preference. That being said, the wrong dress pants break won’t flatter your body type, might not make the statement you think it does, and may not be appropriate for the environment or occasion. The biggest mistake is failing to make an intentional choice. If dress pant breaks are tripping you up, here’s what you need to know. What is The Pant Break? The “break” of the pant is the fold or creasing of fabric that forms at the front of your pant leg, just above where it meets your shoe, while you’re standing. An easier way to think about it is that the pant break is the point where the suit pants break its silhouette against the shoe. Note that the break is defined at the standing position and not while you’re walking, seated or doing squats. The cut of your suit pants, both the length and width (the circumference) of your pant legs, affect how generous or slight your pant break will be. Generally speaking, longer pants = more break. While that one’s a no brainer, wider pants = less break. That’s because the wider the circumference of your leg opening, the harder it will be for the pant fabric to make contact with your dress shoes, and so your break will be less defined. Slimmer leg openings, on the other hand, will hit your shoes earlier, which means they will form a break at a higher point and more readily. All this is to remind you that if you like wearing slimmer pants, the pant legs may need to be a bit shorter to accommodate your preferred break. More on that below. No Break Pants Pants with no breaks work best with pants that are slim and tapered so that the pant opening isn’t too wide. You won’t want to walk and have wide leg openings sashaying back and forth as you stride. Pant hem just reaches but does not rest on the top of the dress shoe Better with slim, tapered pants The modern look that gives off a youthful trendy vibe Easier to pull off for slimmer and/or taller gents Half Break Pants Given its versatility, the half break look can work with both slimmer pants and those that are less tapered and more straight leg. Men who are shorter will benefit in particular from a combination of a slimmer fit and the slightly longer length, which can help create an elongating visual effect. Get the fit right on the rest of the pants (we always suggest bespoke) and a half break will look clean, polished and classically well-dressed on just about everyone. Pant hem makes solid contact with the front of the shoe and forms a slightly visible wrinkle Works with slimmer and straight leg pants A versatile option that works in any context Works for men of any build or height but particularly effective for shorter gents Full Break Pants In addition, with the longer pant length involved and the fact that this look is most often paired with a less tapered pant leg, this look will often be the best option for men who are heavier set. Pant hem forms a single, generous but elegant wrinkle above where it meets the shoe, often covering most of the shoelaces Found on straight-leg, less tapered pants The most conservative choice that is always office-appropriate Works particularly well for heavier-set gents

Bangkok is a city of angels. Along with skyscrapers, shopping malls, nightlife; you come along hoards of tailors along the busy streets of Bangkok. Tailoring has been in Thailand since the early 20th century and counting to do good business. But among thousands of tailors, who you choose as your tailor. Who is the right bespoke tailor in Bangkok? There are few signs one can look out for choosing the right bespoke tailor. We summarize below a short guide you should consider during your search. #1 Reputation – Word of mouth Reputation and the years of operation matters alot. If the Bangkok tailor has been operating since a long time then naturally people in the town know about them and have something to say. The fact that if it is operating for so long, it means the business has been growing and word of mouth is strong. Universal Tailors has been operating since 1985 and in its 3rd generation. Reputation also comes from online reviews, press releases and testimonial. Online reviews on Google, Tripadvisor and other sites play a huge factor. As they are unbiased and cannot be influence by the business owner. Press release shows credibility. Shows that it stood the test of time and has been picked up by top publications for its excellence. #2 Style advice – consultancy? Chat with the client in order to establish their needs and personal expectations is important. This may include their work and background or the circumstances in which they will primarily be wearing their suit. It helps to narrow down the selection of fabric swatches to show to the customer from the hundreds that are available. The final choice is of course down to the individual, but we try and guide them towards something suitable that we know is likely to meet their needs. And then going through various customization options to the suit one of a kind that fits the clients personality and make sure it stands out from the rest. #3 Turnaround time – It takes time to make a good suit Quality takes time. The process of creating a suit requires experienced workmanship and consists of shaping, pressing, reshaping, stitching, measuring etc., until your suit is perfect. Moreover, there can be anywhere from 3-5 fittings required before a final product can be confidently handed over. If you are looking for quality, forget about 24-hour delivery. Minimum turn around time at a proper tailor shop is going to be about 3-5 working days for a standard wool blend fabric suit and 6-12 working days for a high end one (further depending on the construction of your garment). #4 Price – Visible price list indicates transparency and trust Bangkok tailors are known to hike prices for the sake of negotiations. They intentionally raise prices as they know customers will try to cut their prices as Bangkok is known for the place to bargain. We believe in transparency. We charge a flat price depending on the fabric quality keeping the construction and inlays like lining, buttons standard. We do not allow negotiations and we do not charge extra for any customization. Naturally, if the price is too good to be true, the tailor shop is likely compromising on fabric and/or workmanship, and your new suit may not the have best chances to stand the test of time (an example of a this would be a full suit in an Italian fabric for $250 – definitely too good to be true). Final thoughts on choosing the right bespoke tailor in Bangkok Overall, the above blueprint isn’t by any means bulletproof, but sticking to it will help you get closer to finding the right tailor in Bangkok who can offer good quality for a good price. If you are looking for a tailoring house with immense experience and history behind it while getting your new suit, you are always welcome to visit Universal Tailor and talk to our tailors and style consultants. Our store is located less than 5-7 minutes walking from BTS Chongnonsi in Bangkok.

Conor McGregor may be best known for his fighting, but the UFC champion has another skills: dressing like a boss. The Irishman’s outfits are indeed just as killer as his moves, which is why many men are looking to him for fashion ideas and advice. In this article, we’ve rounded up McGregor’s best looks for you to channel.  Those sleek three-piece suits look will have you looking both tough and on-trend in no time at all. Conor McGregor Suit Smart tailoring is a key aspect of Conor McGregor’s iconic style. The superstar fighter is regularly seen sporting sleek and stylish suits for an array of events. In particular, he often chooses to don classic three-piece designs, which include a waistcoat. When it comes to colours, grey and blues are some of his favourite hues, but he’s not afraid to rock a print either, such as cool checks or sharp stripes. Conor McGregor Blue Suit The best way to follow Conor McGregor’s sharp style is to invest in a tailored or bespoke blue suit or two. Be it rich navy or a midnight hue, blue suits are a McGregor favourite. To rock one like Conor himself, team your blue suit with a white shirt. Then, add a tie and pocket square in either a matching blue tone or a highlight colour, like pink. Conor McGregor Grey Suit Grey is another suit colour that McGregor often dons, and it’s one you can easily rock too. Thanks to the vast variety of tones available, grey suits can look great on all gents. All you need to do is find the shade that’s right for you. Then, make like McGregor and team your grey suit with a white, pink or baby blue shirt for a seriously stylish look. Conor McGregor Check Suit While Conor McGregor’s style is always slick, it can also be quite bold. A perfect match for his strong personality, eye-catching and exciting ensembles are a McGregor favourite. For an easy way to channel his adventurous style, try rocking a check suit. Whether it is in maroon, grey, blue or salmon colour, a check suit will instantly add a touch of McGregor flair to any formal look. Conor McGregor Tuxedo As one of the world’s biggest sporting stars, Conor McGregor is invited to the world’s biggest parties, many of which require him to dress to the nines. For such occasions, Conor often rocks a tuxedo. To wear a tux like the UFC star, try choosing a two- or three-piece design in classic black or bold maroon. Also, ensure the fit is on point by visiting a tailor before the big event.

Fashion matters more in politics than we’d imagine. And we are the fashion police in political sphere. Donald Trump taping his ties is the proof that he may be unfit to lead the nation. And at the recent Democratic debate several candidates attempted to use style as a way to silently send a message. Ties no longer required The entrepreneur-turned-presidential hopeful Andrew Yang is Silicon Valleys choice for the Oval.  While all the other male candidates during both nights of debate wore a full suit and tie, Yang made the relatively dangerous choice of ditching both a tie and the top button of his shirt. The Valley, in the minds of some, is synonymous with innovation and an ingenious—and tech-minded—approach to the problems ailing a nation. And they did it all dressed-down in T-shirts and shorts—anything but a suit. Yang’s tiny bare chest is a signal that he’s not some Washington drone but instead a candidate willing to think outside the box. Personally, we ourselves don’t like to wear the tie unless its required. What can brown (and navy) do for you? Liz Mair, a former communications director for the Republican National Committee, and Erick Erickson, a conservative commentator/blogger, sparked a little debate of their own last night when the latter brought up the topic of wearing brown shoes with navy suit. This…was a worse debate than the one between the candidates. For years, the idea of wearing a navy suit with black shoes was taboo—too many dark shades! Brown shoes with your navy suit, meanwhile, became the respectable combo.

With spring and summer on the clock, lighter weight suits and jackets in more casual forms comes into foreplay with the desire for a less structured feel. Integral to this is the the soft shoulder – a lightly padded shoulder construction, giving a softer, more casual silhouette to a tailored jacket. Soft shoulders have little padding and follow the contour of the individual’s shoulder to accentuate the wearer’s natural features. Traditionally favoured by Europeans, particularly Italian tailors, and further afield with American tailors, the soft shoulder is becoming more popular, especially among younger customers. Traditionally there would a built up shoulder, with heavy roping to give a larger sleeve head that extends upward at the shoulder seam. This type of shoulder has thicker internal padding and a thicker sleeve head, resulting in a more pronounced sleeve head roll. A soft shoulder is the opposite of this. In general, our business suit customers tend to opt for a more structured shoulder choice, with padding to hold the shape of the fabric and create a stronger silhouette. The soft shoulder option is more commonly selected for casual wear – in sports jackets and blazers for example – with the natural sleeve head roll, less structure and less padding all combining to create a more relaxed overall look. Individuals with broad shoulders or square shoulder are generally well suited to a soft shoulder construction, as they have less need to create added structure in this area. On the other hand, those with sloping and less defined shoulders benefit from the structure that the prouder sitting, more padded, roped shoulder can provide. This is where the expert advice and guidance of your tailor comes in.

What are surgeon cuffs on a men’s suit? You must have heard about them during a conversation with a tailor or someone who’s a suit-enthusiast. One line answer would be: they are functional button on suit jacket sleeves. They also called working button holes. Lets look back. In the early 19th century, military doctors or surgeons were asked to wear suit jackets. And in the middle of the battle while treating wounded soldiers, more often or not doctors would stain their jackets. The ever practical tailors on Savile Row in London introduced functional buttons on the cuffs of a jacket’s sleeve, so that the doctors could roll their sleeves up when needed. Since then, surgeon cuffs have been synonymous with carefully crafted and high-end men’s suits. Lets dig deeper. Historically, Savile Row neighborhood of London is associated largely by doctors. After few decades, the neighborhood changed and tailors began to set up shops in the area. During the transition period, the tailors started making suits for doctors with functional buttons, thus the name of surgeon cuff  was born. How to use them? Move forward to this day and age, surgeon cuffs are considered one of the prominent feature of a quality handmade suit. You don’t find them in off the rack or MTM suits. They are a true hallmark of custom made suits. It looks elegant when you notice the last button of the suit cuff unbuttoned.  Its a sartorial heritage to men’s fashion. You could also opt to use a contrasting buttonhole on the last button of your suit. Its a subtle bespoke details on the cuff that differentiate your suit from peers and reflects your personality. Its important to know that once the cuff on your suit jacket are made working, the sleeve length can not be modified. You have to be sure of the sleeve length on your suit jacket. Use a quality tailor and you will be in good hands.