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We were missing the grand celebration, after the OSCARS award ended few months back. We were missing the flashy suits, camera flashes and the red carpet celebration. But then came the glitz and glam in May. Our favorite celebs and people in the world of entertainment mesmerized us at the MET GALA, New York glorified and globally celebrated costume party. With the theme this year being “Camp: Notes of Fashion,” some looks are bound to be memorable until next year! Check our top picks below: Shawn Mendes in Saint Laurent Shawn Mendes’ Saint Laurent suit is just as elegant. The white double trimmings and the dots that goes along with it adds enough accents to an already sufficient gentleman’s attire. Like a fashionable urban cowboy. Lewis Hamilton in Tommy Hilfiger Another good example of a gentleman bringing out the camp in him. Patterned suit is nothing new in the past few years, but it’s usually something modest. Lewis Hamilton’s Tommy Hilfiger suit is definitely not – in a very good way. Now, please tell us that the graph spikes represents something from his Formula-1 racing. Patrick Schwarzenegger in Ralph Lauren The traditional cowboy look. It takes some swag to pull this off on a regular basis – let alone that one moment when all fashion eyes are on you. Patrick’s Ralph Lauren set definitely a stand-off. Michael B. Jordan in Coach There’s something about Michael B. Jordan and pitch black red carpet outfits. The subdued tone, with his humble body language, makes a modest but stand out look everytime. This time donning a lovely Coach outfit that are patterned in hundreds of sequins – from the crop coat, the pants, even the boots. Like the look of any of these styles or designs? Why not express your very own style with some bespoke tailored garments, at Universal Tailor we can cater to all your needs to help you create the ultimate outfit.

For the unkown, linen is a natural fibre that comes from the flax plant, the name having derived from the Latin name of the plant. Before the advancement of man-made fibres, linen was often used as the inner layer of expensive garments, which is the  lining. It’s maybe the ultimate warm-weather fabric but not a popular one. Why Linen? Good quality linen isn’t necessarily lightweight, but its low thread count makes it cooler than cotton while it’s also said to be 30 per cent stronger than its summer fabric rival. Although a high-quality linen suit will feel rougher than a new cotton or wool suit it does get softer over time and is conveniently hypoallergenic, so it doesn’t have to be aired out after dry cleaning like a wool suit. The major issue with linen is of course how easily it creases, but thats the charm of the fabric. Simply put, linen is for confident dressers. If you are worried about creasing or just looking for something a little more refined, consider a blend of linen with wool and silk. What To Look For In A Linen Suit A linen suit should be only partially or half lined. Side pockets should be less bulky than a traditional suit and make sure the trousers are unlined. It’s also worth considering an unstructured style as this will have less bulk, but they can be a little shapeless.” LOOK for Linen suit Formal. While linen is naturally more casual than other suit fabrics, it’s still a smart replacement for your wool suits around the office.Avoid pairing a linen suit with a linen shirt though. The elegantly crumpled texture of linen looks far superior and calculated when put alongside a crisp cotton shirt for contrasting texture. Smart Casual is where linen really excels. Wear a nice pique cotton polo shirt with the linen suit. Casual. It doesn’t get more casual than a T-shirt but if you’re going to attempt the once-unthinkable and pair your tailoring with one it’s best to play it neutral with the colour. A white or grey tee works best in summer and allows you to play it up with the colour of your tailoring, while a black tee with a bottle green suit is a deadly combo for a night out. Keep the minimalism and rule-breaking in your footwear by tossing the dress shoes and slipping a slick pair of white calf-skin trainers on instead.

  The present fashion crisis. “Clothes make the man.”—a modern day translation of “For the apparel oft proclaims the man.”—one of the infamous lines from Shakespeare’s Hamlet, meaning others draw their opinion about you depending on the clothes you choose to put on. These lines could not be truer in 2019 with almost everyone trying to showcase their fashion statement on Instagram every few seconds. On the other hand, creating one’s own fashion statement rather than keeping up with the recent trends with little or no change is not in the forte of everyone else. Thus, being trendy alone in this day and age is just not enough to win you that lasting effect on people anymore since one looks no different from the rest.   The next step towards your fashion statement With this crisis at hand, the only viable option that can bring a roundabout in your fashion statement and help you stand out from the crowd would be to break free of the trends. But how do you do that? Stop buying ready-made attires and have them tailor-made instead— yes, you heard right— tailored suites.   Why tailored-suites? If people are going to infer on your character and personality by just taking a glance of what you have on; then what better way to have them do that than having your garments tailor-made. Unlike ready-to-wear garments tailored garments give the impression of how details matter to you as person which in turn will arouse in a people a sense of probability to be able to rely on you.   Tailoring and Alterations. One of the reasons why most of us in general make do with ready-to-wear outfits and do not bother ourselves with having them custom-tailored is mainly because of the additional cost that comes with it in comparison to the affordable mass-produced garbs that are readily available in the market. Well, this is where we all go wrong— tailoring is not just about having new outfits made but it is also about making alterations to your previously purchased attires that are simply lying around collecting dust because they do not fit you right. Also, alterations come a lot cheaper at half or less than half a price of tailoring new attires.   Benefits of owning tailored-suits The right fit Even with a full closet, we land up wearing the same 4 to 5 pieces on a regular basis—something we all do unconsciously. Have you ever wondered why? That is because every once in a while we come across clothing that just fits us right. However, if you switch to having your apparels tailor-made which is made to fit you picture perfect regardless of your weight and height; the days of waiting for a coincidence to stumble up a right-fitting gear will be a mere thing of the past.   Boost in one’s morale Another benefit of switching to having your garments custom-tailored is the boost they give to your self-confidence.  Once you get into the practice of collecting tailored-attires only, it will be of little importance to you if others take notice of your wears because as long as you know what you are wearing; you will feel good on the inside which will naturally show on the outside without having to put in any extra effort.   Timelessness Last but not the least, a tailored suit which is made to your fit remains timeless in terms of its worth regardless of the ever changing time and trend.

The announcement by Goldman Sachs in Marc 2019 that suits are ties are optional made headlines all over the internet and news. The move was a surprise in the industry, as Goldman Sachs and other investment firms have long been known for its suited employees and formal business look.Dress codes at workplace provide a uniformity and a sense of professionalism irrespective of the formality. There are many things to consider when applying a dress code. Many people see clothing and outward appearance as expression of self, beliefs and lifestyle, which makes it a difficult thing to regulate. Read on to see what your business can and cannot legally regulate in your dress code. Factors to consider When setting a dress code, it’s important to think about your company’s identity and the image you want to put forward. For example, it may reflect a disconnect if a lawyer shows up in jeans and a T-shirt, but for a creative director at a startup, it would be in line with the company’s image. You should also look at whether your employees’ work has safety considerations. If they work with machinery, banning jewelry and requiring closed-toe shoes might be appropriate. If they move around frequently, you may need to require pants for all employees. Lastly, think about how a dress code might affect your workplace’s culture. Relaxing the rules may lead to increased collaboration and camaraderie, whereas requiring business formal may increase professionalism and decorum. Use your interpretation of the nature of your work and the cultural norms around it as your guide. What business can regulate It is actually under its legal arm to have rules regarding clothing, hair, tattoos, markup, piercings etc. But as long as these policies do not discriminate employess by gender, race or religion. But the policies need to be appropriate for all employees that come form different religions or belief. The company cannot ban anything outright that discriminates against specific group such as Afro hairstyles, Sikhs turban & beard; etc. The dress code enforced by employee will need to be clear and specific with what is permitted and what is not. What you cannot regulate Anything that cannot be regulated generally has to do with a class of people protected under federal law. A dress code cannot discriminate based on race, color, national origin, gender, pregnancy, religion, disability, genetic information or age.

If you want to own a handmade suit, then a custom tailor must be your top priority. Custom clothing options are becoming a trend because mass-producers of apparel only supply generic sizing with their products. Most people are far from average. That is why a tailor-made, bespoke suit is a top priority for today’s professionals. The statistics of the tailoring industry back up this observation. Top Trends to Consider for the Tailoring Industry The tailoring industry is just starting to embrace the rise of machine learning. Advanced algorithms are making it possible to automate the measurement processes necessary to create a bespoke suit through a custom tailor. However AI is extremely good at processing data in a 2D realm, it’s another matter altogether in the 3D world of textiles. So this trend will take quite some time before becoming a staple in the industry. Robots are also taking over the repetitive tasks of design implementation as sewing has become more available with advancing technologies. This process helps to bring down costs for consumers while creating more availability for custom products. Of course at Universal Tailor we pride ourselves on creating handmade bespoke garments and will not be compromising on quality for the sake of cost. 3-D printing is another top trend that the tailoring industry is evaluating. New rendering technology makes it possible to immediately edit designs and review changes to improve the cut and quality of how custom tailored suits and other clothing items fit. The Future of the Tailoring Industry The primary challenge that faces the tailoring industry today is a shift from business formal to casual dress in the workplace. Despite increases in the need for custom apparel, tailoring and alterations offer fewer opportunities. Despite these challenges, when someone wants to attend a significant life event or make a stunning first impression, a tailor-made suit becomes a must. If you find yourself in the market for a bespoke suit, then contact Universal Tailor on +668 1611 2313 to start the process of looking incredible.

When you want to look your best, the obvious place to turn to for a bit of sartorial assistance is a good quality suit. Many men, though, short on time and currency, will often turn to buying a suit off the rack. Did you know, though, that in terms of value you are always going to get a worse deal buying from the rack? Why, you might ask? It’s often cheaper than getting a bespoke suit in Bangkok, right? Value, though, is not just about saving money. It’s about making that money stretch into something useful and tangible. If you buy an off the rack suit, then you are often dealing with a suit that lacks character. It will often not suit you in the same way that you would get with a ‘normal’ suit. It often means spending a lot of time trying to work your way into the suit, doing what you can to make it look like it was made for you. This naturally leaves you with issues of confidence and feeling like you maybe aren’t made for the suit that you are wearing. It also means that a change in your body shape could leave you with a suit that simply looks bad on you. Therefore, in a few short years, you could be looking to get rid of that suit and instead find something new again. By investing your time and money into a bespoke suit, though, you are much more likely to see long-term rewards for your decision. Why does buying bespoke make a better financial decision? -For one, you will find that if you buy bespoke then you are buying tailored to your own size and style. If you are someone who needs a more fitted and minimalistic style to their suit, then you will only be able to get that with a tailored, bespoke suit. -Also, if you buy a bespoke suit, then you are buying something that is totally tailored to who you are. It’s not just about the fit in terms of physical fit, but in appearance and in style. This suit is much more likely to fit you well and to fit you in terms of the physical style you go for. -Naturally, that suit is going to look better on you, so you will feel better about wearing that suit out in public. This means that if you were to invest in that suit, you would get more use for your money. You might pay a little more, but you’ll wear it on a regular basis! -Best of all? Buying a bespoke suit means that you never need to worry about bumping into someone at a function who is wearing the same clothes as you. This is a common sartorial faux pas, and means one of you is going to look silly! With a bespoke suit, you avoid that. So, with these reasons in mind, can you now see why spending a little more on a bespoke suit might be worth the money? From how it makes you look to how your suit will last in terms of value for money, going bespoke over off the rack is the perfect choice for any man. Don’t settle for second best, make sure you always look your finest!

Just like many other industries out there, the tailoring industry is also influenced by technology in various ways. Nowadays we find various tech ideas and pieces added to men’s fashion just because it’s suitable, easy to use and makes our life a bit better. The suit industry might seem reticent to new tech, just because people have been using the same type of fashion ideas for many years. Non-iron suits This is an interesting thing because every Bangkok tailor would want to work with shirts that never need ironing. Thankfully, this technology is focused on using multiple manufacturing tools designed to boost the fabric strength. What this does is it prevents molecules from moving too much. As a result, there’s increased resistance to creasing, and that helps quite a bit. Stretching technologies Most of the time men’s fashion icons state that they have a hard time wearing a suit because it’s too tight. The stretching technology comes to remedy that. What it does is it finds and optimizes various materials specifically designed to make the suit stretch faster and easier. One of the main materials here is elastane, which helps boost comfort and even the overall quality too. Temperature control It’s extremely important to feel comfortable in your Bangkok suit, but it’s hard to do that when the temperature is very hot outside. But researchers started to develop clothing that helps change how much radiation escapes from the bespoke suit, and it makes it easier for air to circulate around the body. So even if you don’t feel ok because it’s too hot, this type of suit will help you quite a bit. Wearable payment and access suits This is quite an interesting investment that Master Card made recently with fashion designer Adam Selman. They are trying to add a microchip to suits, maybe in the sleeve to make it easy for men to access a location, pay for services and so on. It definitely sounds like a movie, but in a few years it might very well become a real thing. Color-changing fabrics Yes, this is yet another innovation that even a Bangkok tailor would find a bit strange. But it’s real, scientists at the University of Michigan managed to incorporate tiny crystals in clothing and these will react differently based on the light wavelength. What this means is that by adding such crystals into your suit, you will be able to acquire some amazing benefits just like color-changing. Self-healing fabric Despite being in its early days, this technology is set to make the life of any bespoke tailor a lot easier. The idea here is that E-Coli (a bacteria) has self-replicating properties and the fashion industry is exploring ways to use this bacteria to knit broken fabric back together. As you can see, the tailoring industry is ever-growing and technology is an intricate part of it all. That being said, it’s more important than ever to purchase and own a great, high-quality suit from a good Bangkok tailor. So if you want to showcase and maintain a stellar look, do try to invest in a proper Bangkok suit, you will be very happy with your investment!

The last time you wore a suit, would be for a job interview or perhaps a wedding party or a funeral. Over the years, it seems suits have decline in fashion. But the run-away models in 2019 Spring/Summer collection suggests otherwise. There is a lot of suit tailoring with a modern twist. Performance fabrics, vibrant colors, unique detailing, looser cut etc. Oversize Suit  In the ’80s and ’90s, offices got more casual, and as a result, suits got way too big. Then, in the early-to-mid ’00s, designers showed us the wonders of a slim suit.  In 2017 and 2018, it finally seems like the industry at all price points has embraced a less-boxy, better-fitting suiting aesthetic. But in fashion no trend is too big to fail. Over the past few seasons, something strange has been happening on runways: Suits are getting bigger. Do go throw your slim suit away right yet. Oversize suits are in but it may not be mass produce or widely accepted or worn by everyone. Whats important is these oversize suits are cut and style in a very unique way. The fabrics used for these new suits seem specially tailored to meet the inherent flowiness of bigger proportions. The pants are just cut wide, but has the grace, the fall and the drape to it rather than just sticking to the thigh. Sure, there’s something to be said for the idea that a bigger suit can only look good on a tall, skinny model. That’s definitely possible, but this trend is also very new. Ultimately, all we’re saying is that the big suit trend only seems to be getting bigger, and if you can pull it off, it’s one of the coolest ways to stand out right now. In other words, proceed with caution and be aware that a well-tailored suit will look better on almost every guy. Street wear suit influence Its time the suit and tie had a millennial makeover. And that is the influence of streetwear into the suits. This new type of suit is a little slouchy, with a strong streetwear influence by best pairing them with sneakers rather than dress shoes. Streetwear has been influencing the mainstream fashion and luxury markets for few years now. The agenda for streetwear is simply – classic suits is too stuffy and uptight. And it wouldn’t harm skipping the shirt inside just like how its shown in Dior’s SS19 show. Streetwear began as a ground up movement, clothes for surfers and skaters and punk teens. Its a movement against the boring professionalism and exclusivity and expense of luxury fashion. It instead favoured rawness, attitude, creativity, community. It was for us, by us. But now, subsumed by the larger fashion industry it too became boring, professional, “high quality”. A look rather than an attitude or an ideology. A £1000 cotton hoody; no creativity, no community. Streetwear became a victim of its own success, its own dominance. It was once a reaction against an establishment, and then it became the establishment. And now, all of sudden, the suit — that oldest, most boring staple — feels revolutionary again.

Windowpane pattern are thin/slim lines that cross like squares/rectangle on fabrics. It is an ongoing trend and have been making their way into suits at Italian labels and at bespoke tailors too. Windowpane can be the contender for the most perfect suit patterns. Windowpane pattern beefs up the slim guy, makes the thin guys look bulkier. On the contrary, it has a slimming visual impact for larger men. It also facilitates an easier way for men who can’t mix and match their suit with shirt and tie. We have the suits with herringbones, houndstooths, pinstripe, twills but windowpane has some unique character to it. It adds an extra elegance to the overall suit. In a world where just the word pattern strikes fear into the hearts of many men, we present our windowpane suit guide as the antidote to pattern panic. Will I look good in Windowpane suit? Everyone looks great in windowpane suit. It has a a certain elegance or flattering essence that makes it one of the most desired suit pattern. Windowpane is actually not a squared line but it is actually a elongated rectangles. This has the effect of slightly elongating the wearer and that’s one reason you see bigger guys wear this pattern. Still, the pattern does include horizontal lines that can serve to bulk up the skinny guy’s presence. This makes windowpane suits a great alternative to pinstripes for the slimmer gent. This slick little visual trick is what makes the windowpane suit one of the most versatile suits a man can own. Do wear: For work and weddings. It makes the perfect blazer too not suit alone. Don’t wear: For job interview or funeral.

There’s a big event coming up and you want to be looking at your very best. Or maybe you have an upcoming interview and you want to impress. There’re countless reasons why you might want to dress to impress and this will often involve wearing a suit. The good news is that there’s plenty to choose from. Just a brief walk down the high street and you will find plenty of fashion retailers selling suits of all styles off the shelf, but is this really what you want? You should have little difficulty finding an off the shelf suit in your size, but it is rare that they will fit as well as a suit really can fit. We all come in different shapes and sizes and off the shelf suits are made to general specifications. For the best suits of all, you need something that has been made just for you. A Perfect Fit Tailor made suits are just that… tailor-made, and they are tailor-made just for you. You will be asked to go in person to see the tailor so that they can take your measurements. You will also likely to be asked to make further appointments with the tailor as the creation of the suit progresses. This helps the tailor to make any necessary adjustments as they go along to make sure the suit is just right for you. With a skilled tailor doing the work, the result is a suit that fits you perfectly. Not only does it look good, but it also feels good. The difference between an off the shelf suit and a tailor-made suit is very noticeable. You will not want to go back to an of the shelf suit again if you can avoid it. You will also often find that you can get shirts and other items as part of the deal. Again, these will be tailor-made to your specific measurements and will fit you perfectly. Future Adjustments Few of us will go through life without our body shape changing, especially around the waist area. Whether you lose weight or, more likely, gain weight, your suit will no longer fit as well as it used to. This might mean that your old suit needs to be put away where it may never be worn again. If you have purchased a tailor-made suit from a good quality tailor, though, then this should not be a problem for you. They will likely be happy to adjust your suit for you so that it continues to fit regardless of how your body might change. It also helps to be able to take it back to the same tailor because they will be adjusting their own work. A Worthy Investment It’s true that a good quality tailor-made suit will probably cost you more than an off the shelf suit. A tailor-made suit will give you more longevity, though, making it a more cost-effective investment in the long term. There’s also the matter of looking better and feeling better, which is worth the extra money in itself.

In a City Full of Tailors, Don’t Compromise and Pick the Best Tailor in Bangkok One thing that many visitors to Bangkok notice is the sheer number of tailors that are available. You will often find that there are several right next door to each other, all trying to convince you that you should use their shop over the others. It can be difficult to choose one over the other, though, after all they are all selling more or less the same thing. You might also feel as though you are being hurried into a decision, but you should take your time and decide in your own time. Hold Out for Quality When you are looking for a tailor in Bangkok, you will find that all of the shops will tell you that they offer the finest quality suits around. The reality can be somewhat different, though. The quality of the materials is not always up to the best standards, while the workmanship can also be much better at times. Even if a suit does look good and feel good when it is first ready, that doesn’t mean it will stay that way for long. A suit made from poor quality materials and workmanship might soon begin to lose its shape. A good quality suit, though, will be with you for many years to come. Where to Shop? Not many of us are tailoring experts. We tend not to know what to look for when shopping for suits, but there are some tips that can help you get a suit that is genuinely of high quality. · Get Referrals Avoid taking the word of people that work in the shop. Of course, they are going to tell you that their suits are the best. Instead, look for 3rd party advice from people that have no reason to be anything but honest. Have a look online to see what advice you can get and you should get plenty of recommendations. You could also try having a look in fashion magazines that will feature some of the best tailors around. · Hand Stitched For real genuine quality, it is best to look for something that has been hand stitched as much as possible. This helps to ensure fine workmanship that you can count on for many years to come. · Check Materials It is essential that a suit is made from excellent quality materials. Thoroughly inspect the materials on offer and compare them with others where possible. A good quality tailor should have no problem allowing you to take a small sample, allowing you to be sure of their quality. · Time A good quality suit takes time to make. It can also take several fittings to get it just right. If you do visit a tailor that offers a quick turnaround with just one fitting, then you might want to consider moving on elsewhere. If you are on holiday then your time is obviously limited. With that in mind, make visiting a tailor one of the first things you to give them time to do what they need to do. Overall, spending what you can on a suit will help ensure that you have something that helps you look good for years. When in a city like Bangkok, there is no need to compromise on quality when it comes to suits.

Good tailors who is an expert in its craft is becoming rare. That means there are more average or bad tailors in the industry. For men, dressing well is a skilled that comes with one own’s experiences and inspiration from others.  Inspiration can come from red carpet celebrities, sports person wearing the expensive Italian label suits. Or inspiration can come from someone in the family that you look up to like your father. It takes years to discover the style that works best on you and one learns from their own mistakes. As tailors are really hard to find as of late (at least good ones), we wanted to outline few traits to look for when searching for one. Traits that an excellent tailor should have? The tailor should have answers to your question The tailor should dig deep and explain you on every possible doubts you have. They should take time in explaining you the style that is in trend and what has gone out of fashion. They should not be reluctant to tell the client if they are wrong in their selection or the client is being outrageous or over ambitious. Custom tailoring can be pricey, both in the cost of service and the fact the end result can be ruined clothing. The potential of high costs makes it a good idea to ask questions and avoid any unnecessary headaches in the future. Patience is key here. The tailor should guide and ask questions during the fitting stages (the most important stage). Relationship with the tailor The journey in finding your own unique personal style, relationship with people and craftsman is important. They help and aid you in becoming a sartorial gentleman. Like the old saying goes “you don’t change your barber easily, nor you change your tailor easily”. Bespoke tailoring takes time and its a joint effort between the tailor and the client. Firstly, there has to be absolute clarity on the fabric quality, weight and seasonality that is most suitable for the fabric. During the fitting stage, there has to be strong communication regarding the fit to make sure the tailor and the client are on the same understanding. Detail oriented Making sure that the sleeves fit your arms properly and all other measurements are to exact specifications are signs of a good tailor. But a great tailor goes even further then that. Do you prefer to wear your smartphone in your jacket pocket? Is one part of your body out of sequence with another? Your tailor’s attention to detail needs to go beyond accurate measurements. He should be able to assess both your proportions and your habits to ensure that your suit fits your daily needs. He should showcases you in your best light. They should leave no stone unturned and should think of every minute aspect before you do. Have ample experience (and great reviews) If you’re looking to get a good tailored suit, start with someone who’s been in the business for years. Many tailors learn the trade from generations who came before. That means that family businesses are also a great starting point. A tailor who learned from a tailor is a great indicator that he is passionate in his craft and has learned from various generations. There is something special when knowledge is passed down through the generations and this holds especially true with tailors. If your tailor has been around for a number of years, you would have heard about them from your friends or families. References can be a great way to find a reputable tailor or receive confirmation you’ve chosen wisely.

What are surgeon cuffs on a men’s suit? You must have heard about them during a conversation with a tailor or someone who’s a suit-enthusiast. One line answer would be: they are functional button on suit jacket sleeves. They also called working button holes. Lets look back. In the early 19th century, military doctors or surgeons were asked to wear suit jackets. And in the middle of the battle while treating wounded soldiers, more often or not doctors would stain their jackets. The ever practical tailors on Savile Row in London introduced functional buttons on the cuffs of a jacket’s sleeve, so that the doctors could roll their sleeves up when needed. Since then, surgeon cuffs have been synonymous with carefully crafted and high-end men’s suits. Lets dig deeper. Historically, Savile Row neighborhood of London is associated largely by doctors. After few decades, the neighborhood changed and tailors began to set up shops in the area. During the transition period, the tailors started making suits for doctors with functional buttons, thus the name of surgeon cuff  was born. How to use them? Move forward to this day and age, surgeon cuffs are considered one of the prominent feature of a quality handmade suit. You don’t find them in off the rack or MTM suits. They are a true hallmark of custom made suits. It looks elegant when you notice the last button of the suit cuff unbuttoned.  Its a sartorial heritage to men’s fashion. You could also opt to use a contrasting buttonhole on the last button of your suit. Its a subtle bespoke details on the cuff that differentiate your suit from peers and reflects your personality. Its important to know that once the cuff on your suit jacket are made working, the sleeve length can not be modified. You have to be sure of the sleeve length on your suit jacket. Use a quality tailor and you will be in good hands.

Should you opt for belt in your suit trousers or no? There are different school of thoughts in this topic. A traditionalist would strongly say with full confidence “YES” while a fresh new graduate would consider belt to be optional. There isn’t a right or wrong answer to this question. There is some guidelines and occasion to when to wear a belt and when to skip it. We will make your life easier below:  Belts are common men’s accessory when dressing up in a suit nowadays. But it wasn’t back in early 20th century. Back then suits didn’t have belts but rather had pull-tabs or side adjusters on the waistband to accommodate any minor fluctuation in weight.  Suspenders were used when a little extra lift was needed. It wasn’t until suits went into mass production with standardized sizing and off-the-rack shopping that belt loops were introduced. Over time, the belt had become an acceptable office standard. Rules dictated that the belt should match or complement the shoes and be streamlined in design. So you wear your suit with a belt, and that’s totally fine if it’s used as an accessory to complete your look. But when you have a perfectly tailored bespoke suit, the belt should not act as a item to keep your pants sliding off. Rather it should be an accessory that enhance the look. A rule of thumb is the more formal the occasion is, the less likely the belt is needed. That’s is why you never see a belt in tuxedos or black tie suit. So if there is no belt, opt for button side tabs or metal side adjuster like below. Final Verdict At the end of the day, it comes down to the belt loops. If you’ve got them, you should use them. If no loops are present, mystery solved. Keep in mind that regardless of belt choice, your pants should be tailored to fit your body. A belt holding up too-big balloon trousers looks sloppy. If you’re opting for a belt even occasionally, remember that it’s an accessory, not a necessity. And if it’s an option in your wardrobe, going beltless ensures a cleaner, leaner, more streamlined silhouette that will set you apart in the best way. And without belt, you need not worry about matching your shoes color and design with your belt.

Dress shirt collars comes in various shapes, sizes and style. Understanding and utilizing the collar is an important lesson in men’s fashion. The choices are limited if you buy MTM shirt or off the rack shirt; that’s the beauty of getting a hand made custom shirt. Men usually stick to a few collar shapes; but becoming confident with all the small details of a collar broaden your fashion sense and enable a man to add his personal style to the dress shirt.  The right collar can change the tone of an outfit from average to amazing. We believe in having a mix of collar styles in your wardrobe; don’t stick to one. To suit every occasion possible, play around with every collar; right from wide cutaways to button downs; etc. Most bloggers or brands would suggest you to get a collar that correlate with your face – e.g. if you have a long face, you should be using spread collars or if you have a square face, you should avoid point collar. We think this is complete nonsense and complicate things. One can enjoy all sort of collars and adapt them to fit your personality and style. Avoid following someone else rules that is based on one’s self opinion. Bottom line is to a shirt that fits and collars that looks good and you are comfortable in. Add your personal style in the collar and experiment with them. Read below on our complete guide: Point collar Our most traditional collar, and often thought of as a more American collar. It has a narrower distance between the two collar points and, when buttoned, a smaller enclosure for a tie knot. An excellent choice and a classic look for the office.  There is less room between the collar leafs than in a spread collar, which means it’ll accommodate a slimmer tie knot rather than a larger one. You’re a no-nonsense traditionalist who appreciates the classics. A work-horse collar and recommend to wear with a tie. Semi-Spread collar   A very popular collar alternative to the point collar is semi-spread collar. It accommodates a larger and smaller tie with ease. The spread gives a classic look and timeless option. This collar style accommodates both small and large tie knots due to the space between the collar leafs. Semi-Spread collars are generally very versatile and can be worn easily with a jacket and tie or on their own. One of the most popular choice. But if you have awfully big neck, would suggest to go for spread collar. Spread Collar Called English spread collar, this collar has become more popular in recent years. It’s great to show off your tie knot. Looks confident and classy when worn with the collar button undone. The spread collar shirt is really your “no wrong answer” kind of shirt. It works in just about every situation imaginable, won’t get you in trouble for any kind of employer dress code/style violation and just looks damn good. Too easy.  Most versatile collar and suit everyone. Cutaway Collar A cutaway collar is a bold, modern and sartorially-advanced style choice. Following the rigid, longer and narrower collars of the 1920s, the cutaway collar dress shirt emerged in the 1930s. The cutaway collar is not for everyone. It is the most fashion forward collar. If you’re at all on the fence about it, go with a spread collar instead. But if it’s your thing, it can be easily become “your look” for just about every kind of occasion, ranging from office to date to wedding. Confidence to wear the collar is the key. Button-down Collar This collar fastens the collar points to the body of the shirt with buttons. It is gaining popularity more recently in business casual looks. The button down was originally invented for polo players to keep their collar points from moving during matches. It is best worn with collar button undone. Looks perfect with casual untucked shirt and also semi-formal shirt. Must not wear with a tie. Wing collar This is a collar band with small collar points turned down at the front neck. Used for formal gatherings with a tuxedo this collar is not part of an everyday wardrobe. The “wings” hold your bowtie in place. Modern men have moved to wearing their bowties with point and spread collars in finer fabrics.

Hopsack is basically the name of the weave, not a fabric name. Hopsack varies in terms of the weight, twist and how tightly or loosely the fabric is woven. It is basically a lightweight wool fabric and go-to fabrics in summers. It has a basket weave texture which gives a very different feel to tailored garment; which is a good thing as it adds some character to the garment. According to us, its better than plain weave as it separates from trousers and make it not look like a full suit. Modern hopsacks are soft, very breathable and crease resistant. This makes a perfect travel blazer as it beautifully creases out after folding them in your luggage. The rough texture of the fabric makes a obvious choice for blazer as it does incredibly well with denims and chinos. And also looks formal in two or three piece suit. On a whole, its a very versatile garment. PROS OF HOPSACK – Lightweight and breathable. Half lined jacket would be great for this fabric. – Natural wrinkle resistance due to woven texture. – Forgiving drape, easier to tailor. – The coarse texture creates a more casual, wearable garment. CONS OF HOPSACK Due to its open weave, this fabric is delicate and sensitive to rubbing – this is the reason why it is less used in elegant trousers tailoring. Hopsack trousers risk indeed damaging or snagging easily on the crotch. To conclude, the very loose and airy structure does make it breathable, but not heat/cold-proof. That’s why it is considered as a summer and spring fabric, less autumn and definitely not winter. We carry good selection of hopsack fabrics both in Asian all wool fabric and from renowned Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico. Check it out!

Suit fabrics can range from real cheap ones to exquisite ones. Deciding between fabrics can be a real struggles; but avoid polyester fabrics at all time. One of the key sartorial decision to be made while getting a suit tailored is seasonality. One should be able to navigate the changing weather through its suit fabrics. Summers are pleasant. Days are long, nights are short and warm.  Summers means you munch on good food and blasting your tummy. But as mother nature changes its pace, the humidity and stickiness fades. Soon, the air breathes good chills. Then it would be time to sidelined your summer linen and fresco suits. And it calls for a different wardrobe. Dressing for FALL is a challenge. The fabric and pattern makes a difference when the temperature drops. The best bet is warmer, darker and more textured fabric. Read below on our FALL suit guide: GUIDELINES:  Before we start on our guide, it’s important to understand that there are alternatives in terms of fabrics like silk, viscose etc, but the majority of fall suits are made from 100% wool or all wool. The fabrics we recommend below are all 100% wool fabrics milled and woven in different textures, weight etc. FLANNEL WOOL Most men will have never worn flannel fabric, let alone a flannel suit. Suits for them are worsted wool – wool that has been combed and pressed, made sleek and sharp. ‘Woollen flannel’, is without that treatment. Flannel– classically in grey but also in navy and other colors – are clearly smart. Yet their fuzzy (milled) texture separates them from normal suit. Wool flannel suits are perfect for fall, they are heavier which means they provide a better drape and better insulation as mentioned above. A gray flannel suit is the godfather of the genre, armed with the ability to mix-and-match with almost anything in your wardrobe, this suit is easy on the eyes, and even easier to wear. TWEED Suit Tweed is made from carded wool instead of combed wool. Carded wool, also known as woolens, is thicker and consists of uneven, uncombed yarns. This makes for a fabric that is more raised, flexible, and warmer, but not as smooth and fine to the touch as your worsted or wool flannel suit fabrics. Tweed is deeply rooted in the heritage of 1800’s England, Ireland, and Scotland, where gentlemen engaged in outdoorsy and athletic pursuits embraced it for its superb resistance to cold air, wind and water. In fact, it was considered a performance fabric in its heyday. Though it’s not as popular in modern times, mills like Harris Tweed has kept the tradition alive. More importantly, suits made from tweed will indeed keep you warm in cooler weather and carry with them a certain vintage sartorial charm. UT as one of the superior tailors in Bangkok, offer good selection of tweeds in store and bought online. Variety of Pattern Suit The plaid pattern (also known as tartan) is key to the fall season. Plaid is weave from multiple overlapping horizontal and vertical threats taken from a variety of colors. Because of the diverse range of available color combinations, including the use of monotone combinations, plaid can be perfect for both statement-makers and subtle guys alike. Plus, this enhanced versatility also means plaid suits can be mixed and matched for almost any dress code, and look as sharp in the office closing deals as they do while you’re listening to some live jazz and downing an old-fashioned. As a general plaid rule, bolder patterns with greater color contrast produce trendier looks while understated and more monochrome patterns give off a more classic, sophisticated aura. In modern times, the herringbone pattern is profound in all men’s fashion right from suits, sports coats to shirts. Its particularly loved for its subtlety. It looks plain from afar but up close its a pattern with sophistication. It has an inherent charm to it.

Business suit help you close business For business attire or business suits, the color is straight forward. The standard color for suits are navy or grey. The choice is limited but it STILL needs to be done right. There is no other color that looks smarter or flatter one’s skin better than these two colors. Black is too boring, brown isn’t for everyone and light tan or grey is on the casual side. The color needs to be dark for business and again not that dark that looks like almost black. Navy is the gold standard for business suit. Sometimes men end up buying too dark navy, that is midnight navy blue. Which looks close to black. Midnigh navy looks pale and pasty. On the other hand, mid blue have become very popular over the years, particularly at weddings. Mid blues would be too strong color for most offices. In general, the paler and brighter a colour the more casual it is, so if you want to wear a colour like this, have it in something more casual, like a linen jacket. Navy is serious, professional and yet interesting enough in terms of colour combinations. Midnight blue looks smart with a white shirt and black shoes, but that’s about it. Navy, on the other hand, also looks good with those accessories, but brings out chocolate-brown shoes as well. And a blue shirt under a navy suit provides a great background for experimentation with colour in the tie or handkerchief – strong colours against black just look cheap. Suitable color for business suit Most of this applies to greys as well. Sometimes men wear grey that is way too dark and looks almost like black and with little texture. Generally, there are really two good categories of grey that can be worn for business: charcoal and mid-grey. Charcoal is a sober and professional, and works particularly well in flannel, but (like navy) it cannot be mistaken for black. Mid-grey, however, is kindest of all the suit colours on skin tones – it compliments a good tan, but it doesn’t wash out the pasty. It is for that reason that I would recommend creating a business wardrobe (or commissioning their your bespoke suits) in navy, charcoal and mid-grey. Mid-grey might feel a little adventurous. It is a touch lighter than the grey suit you would instinctively buy for business. Don’t be afraid – it will look perfectly serious with a blue shirt, dark tie and deep-brown Oxfords. But it will also work wonderfully in a casual summer setting, with a white shirt, mid-brown shoes and perhaps a white linen handkerchief. Should I pick a pattern? If you are getting your first bespoke suit, make it plain. There is enough aspect of the suit to be worried about like; fit, style, color, customization. When we say plain, it means twill weave. That is a very fine diagonal line running across the fabric. Worst wool (the material that most suits are made of) is rarely plain. There are twills, pinheads, pick on pick which come across as plain but its not. In general, minor patterns is a good thing. Its gives character to the suit. Unless the desired look is upmost formal, a little pattern or texture adds to the interest of the suit and contrast nicely with tie and shirt. So consider those little patterns to be nothing more than texture. Herringbone is often a good option for a second or third suit; essentially a broken twill, it adds a touch of interest without sacrificing seriousness.

The pocket square is a cultural relic. In ancient Egypt, nobles wore pocket squares made of Chinese silk. Later, Greeks carried perfumed cotton cloths to remove sweat, creating an ancient antiperspirant. In Medieval Europe, knights would carry handkerchiefs close to their chest as proof of a lady’s favor. Pocket squares have been integral to cultures across millennia. Although they trace back to ancient Egypt, the pocket square is a modern wardrobe staple. They’re tucked into the pockets of modern style icons, real and fictional. Every James Bond has worn one, and John F. Kennedy (perhaps the most stylish president) was rarely seen without one adorning his suit. Today’s pocket square is more about style than utility, but it makes a big difference in an outfit. Whether cotton, linen or silk, plain, patterned or printed, one of these square pieces of cloth has the potential to pull an average tailored look into the A-grade. Why Wear a Pocket Square? Pocket squares polish an outfit without making you look like you care a lot about your appearance. After all, you are the focus—not your clothes. It can also make a good suit look even better. A pocket square in a solid color tones down a patterned suit. Worn with a solid suit, a patterned pocket square (or a solid one in a contrasting color) makes the outfit more interesting. Pocket squares fit every man’s lifestyle. They’re formal enough for a black-tie event but casual enough for happy-hour drinks. It all depends on how you style it. When to wear a Pocket Square? Historically, the pocket square was a necessity for guests attending dinner parties and other formal engagements. The classic pocket square fashion for smart occasions remains much the same today: a white, handkerchief-style pocket square folded into a flat fold (more on that later). However, even within the sphere of formal attire, there is still scope to experiment with your arrangement and move outside the standard white pocket square rule. We are occasionally asked, is there ever a time not to wear a pocket square? The answer to that is not really. Once you become a regular square wearer you’ll find that not wearing a square is like leaving the house without your shoes. It’s really a case of degrees. If you want to go for a very conservative look choose a pocket square that is only a shade or two lighter than your jacket and go for a flat fold, or something that provides just a little bit of contrast such as a navy square with polka dots. MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE One question we often get asked is around whether you should be matching your tie and pocket square. The short answer is no. Although it might seem like an easy way to coordinate your outfit, matching your pocket square and tie or bow tie is a definite no-no in modern dress. Instead, the purpose of the pocket square is to complement the rest of your look: either by harmonising or contrasting with your other accessories. So although some stores even offer matching tie and pocket square sets, our advice is to steer clear of these if you want to be seen to be on top of your style game. Plain colour styles are an absolute must, their simplicity and lack of pattern making them easy to match with your ensemble. Especially worthwhile investing in when taking your first steps into pocket squares is a classic white version – now widely considered as much a wardrobe essential as the Oxford shirt or Derby shoe. Once you’ve got your plain color bases covered, it’s time to introduce pattern. Prioritise timeless motifs – think paisley, polka dots and checks – in rich jewel tones like burgundy, navy, and bottle green, as well as fail-safe neutrals like white, grey and black. POCKET SQUARE FOLDS While the color and pattern of your pocket square can say a lot about your fashion sense and color coordination skills you should also know how to fold or not fold your pocket square. The PUFF The puff ‘fold’ is the easiest and most casual way to wear a pocket square. All you have to do is lay the pocket square flat out on a table and pinch it up from the center. Once you have achieved this gently tuck the corners of the pocket square into your jacket breast pocket. This fold works best with silk pocket squares that are larger, so that they do not disappear in your pocket. Edged Puff The Edged Puff is a variation of the Pocket Square Puff Fold, where the edges that are tucked into the breast pocket are now fold back up so they are showing behind the ‘puff’.  The Edged Puff is one of our favorite ways of wearing a pocket square as it shows color and style with both the puff and the pocket square edges being displayed. Square Fold The Square Fold works well with linen or cotton pocket squares given that their fabric structure is slightly more rigid than silk, helping to keep the pocket square’s edges in place. Hence, a square fold is ideal for business / formal settings. One-Point Fold A super classic way to interpret pocket squares, the one-point fold displays a triangle shape peeking out through your pocket. This fold is more noticeable than the conservative square fold, and is recommended for most looks featuring pocket squares. A higher quality silk is recommended. Three-Point Fold One of the more complicated folds, this style should be approached when you feel more comfortable wearing pocket squares. Otherwise known as the Crown Fold, this style works well with simplistic silks as well as deeply coloured patterns, adding dimension to your formal looks. This is for when you are really going formal with your pocket square or if you want to really make a statement with it. This fold is also one of the toughest to get right. The Different Types of Materials Pocket squares are generally made from silk, cotton, and linen. Wool is sometimes thrown into a fabrication, and

Interestingly, most men think about cotton or linen fabrics first. Also, the lightness of the fabrics seems to be the number one criterium, but these are only two aspects of warm weather menswear. Therefore we created this guide where we explain what to look for in hot weather clothing. Although a summer suit needs more than just one characteristic in order to be  worn comfortably, the most important aspect is neither weight nor the choice of material – it is breathability. High Breathability Due to Loose Weave & Lack of Lining When it is hot, you definitely want to feel every breeze coming your way, and the best way to do so is with an open-weave fabric. Loosely woven fabric such as basketweave fabric, is usually popular in summer and achieves the desired cooling effect. When you hold a piece of this fabric against the light, you can see through the weave of the cloth, even it if is dark navy. If the fabric is a heavier weight, it will also keep you cooler than a featherweight cotton fabric that is tightly woven. The more open the weave, the more patterned your fabric should be to keep it from becoming see-through. However, bear in mind that lighter colors are better than darker ones since light-colored cloth reflects the sunlight whereas dark cloth absorbs it, making you feel warmer. Also, you want to make sure that you get at least a half-lined jacket because, again, the finer weave of the lining will decrease your garment’s ability to breathe. Half-lined denotes that the back does not have any lining except for the top, and fully unlined usually means that there is no lining except in the sleeves. Once you have settled on an open-weave, you can turn to choosing the weight of your suiting fabric. Fortunately, modern high-quality fabrics have a beautiful finish, and although the drape is not perfect, they are still the way to go.  7 ounces (210 grams) summer fabrics usually have very open weaves and you should seek out specific summer fabrics for summer suits, because even though some fabrics may be lightweight, the weave may be too dense for summer. A popular summer fabric choice is Tropical. Basically all big mills offer their take on it, and it is simply an open weave worsted wool fabric. It’s generally softer than fresco but also not as breathable. Overall, it is a good choice, but if you want increased air flow you have to go with something else. Linen for Summer? Linen is a classic summer fabric because of its light weight, open weave and casual fabric structure. It is usually a little coarser than fine merino wool or cotton fibers., and it wrinkles graciously. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will appear anything but dapper. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will look a bit wrinkled but in a sophisticated way. For the office, you need to be able to pull it off because many people will just think it is a wrinkled suit. Classic linen summer suit colors include tobacco brown, beige or khaki tones, but you can also go with blue. If you go with the latter, be sure to get a lighter shade of blue than you would for a wool business suit because it underlines the summer character. If you want to do something special, you can also opt for unusual colors such as sky blue linen suit. Summer Cotton For most men, cotton seems to be a default choice during the summer. Now, there is a lot of cotton on the world market, but there are huge differences in terms of fiber length and thickness. In regard to summer clothing, the weave is more important. For example, khaki colored twill trousers or fine “summer” corduroy are not desirable since they impede air circulation. Instead, try to look for open weave poplin fabric. If you cannot see through the fabric when holding it against the light, it is not well suited for warm summer weather.